A Korean-inspired fine-dining restaurant, Nōksu serves a 12-course tasting menu in the 34th Street–Herald Square subway station. At 29 years old, Dae Kim is its head chef, as well as an alum of Thomas Keller’s three-Michelin-starred Per Se. A gust of subway air welcomes clients into Nōksu while 80s music plays and chefs fist-bump. Kim’s focus is unbreakable, his motions scientific yet innate. His favorite dish, the surf clam, is a hen-egg custard hidden in a bed of grilled surf clams and topped with potato chips delicately set around caviar in a flower-like formation. The dish pays homage to Keller’s white-truffle custard from the French Laundry, and to chef Alain Passard’s hot-cold-egg dish from Arpège, in Paris. The clams are cooked until tender and then grilled—a technique inspired by Kim’s nostalgic memory of one of his grandmother’s recipes. Prepare for more than two hours of seafood and surprises. —Jeanne Malle