When Nobu opened in Milan in 2002, Italians mostly turned their noses up at sushi. It took a long time for them to come around. Shortly afterwards, Yoshikazu Ninomiya opened Fukurou, a venerable, omakase–style, philadelphia roll-snubbing place, which quickly became a favorite amongst Japanese food connoisseurs. After he was forced out of his lease in 2020, he opened Kappou Ninomiya a few doors down. The restaurant is characterized by white walls, wooden tables, and a charming bar. We recommend the cold soba topped with Italian bottarga. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is the Senior Editor at AIR MAIL