Yes, this is a business-lunch kind of place, with white tablecloths and little to no ambiance. But despite the crowd, the food remains exceptional. It’s hard to find tomatoes as fresh in New York, and the house-made tzatziki and branzino marinated in capers and olive oil are excellent. The food is light and simple—a subtlelty most restaurants in the city forget or forgo. It’s a real ode to Mediterannean cooking, and Greeks will attest it rivals some of the best restaurants in Athens. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is the Senior Editor at AIR MAIL