Skip to Content

The Arts Intel Report

A Cultural Compass
For the World Traveler
A Cultural Compass
For the World Traveler

Barney Greengrass

The counter at Barney Greengrass.

541 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024, United States

For many New Yorkers, the only royalty they recognize is the “Sturgeon King,” better known as Barney Greengrass, the upper West Side palace for smoked fish, latkes, pastrami on rye, babka, and pretty much everything else you might crave if you want to give your cardiologist heart palpitations. Run now by Barney’s grandson Gary, the place has been in business for more than 100 years and in its current location since 1929, and who cares if the wallpaper shows it. Order the scrambled eggs with pastrami salmon and a toasted onion bagel and achieve bliss. No liquor, but with Dr. Brown’s on hand, who wants a Bloody Mary? And do leave home without your credit card. Cash only, and worth every penny. —Jim Kelly

Jim Kelly is the Books Editor at AIR MAIL

Photo: Artz/laif/Redux