A big sign behind the bar reads, “rice, skin temperature, fish, room temperature”—the perfect formula, as any connoisseur will tell you,for a perfect nigiri. This, alongside a special vinegar recipe, were Chef Toshio’s main priorities when he opened Tanoshi Sushi 20 years ago. Things haven’t changed much since. It’s still bring-your-own-booze, there are only eight seats at the counter, and the exterior is run-down, which keeps away crowds who go to places for the hype. If you go for lunch, it’s also very affordable, with a $55 menu option. And Woody Allen happens to be a Tuesday night regular. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is the Senior Editor at AIR MAIL