Jesús Tornés was born in a small village in the Mexican state of Guerrero. Growing up, his parents would light a wood-fired comal and cook maize in clay pots in his backyard. This is exactly the kind of ethos that now powers his Mexico City restaurant, which celebrates maize and the tortilla. There is no menu, and when you sit down for lunch or dinner, the waiter will ask you just three questions: How hungry are you?; Do you have any allergies?; and Do you have any particular cravings or preferences? After that, you just sit back, relax, and let them do the work. The heirloom tortilla with requeson, the Hoya Santa, and the pozole are all to die for. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is a Senior Editor at AIR MAIL