When chef Sirichai Sreparplarn closed the original Ugly Baby in 2024, Brooklyn lost one of its best restaurants. The Thai spot in Caroll Gardens was tiny, the decoration funky, and customers came braced for one of the spiciest meals of their lives. Yet the ever-changing menu never ceased to amaze—especially the pork belly and Thai hot basil stir fry, the dry curried beef, and the Khao Soi. Sreparplarn shut it down only to catch his breath. Now he’s back, in Williamsburg this time, with a larger space on two floors and a full bar. —Jeanne Malle