Every Tuesday, chef Ron Yan wheels a cart filled with 30 pounds of rice noodles from a shop on Grand Street to his restaurant, Tolo, on Canal Street, in New York’s Chinatown. On Fridays, he goes back for another 40 pounds. Although his arms get sore from all of the pulling—”It’s heavier than you’d think”—it’s worth it. Once he sears those noodles in a wok and tosses them with flowering garlic chives and XO sauce, they become Tolo’s top-selling dish.”I dream about that dish,” Yan, who opened Tolo last fall, says. “Every time I bring it to the pass or drop it off at bar seats, I’m like, I want to eat it, just one piece.” —Nina Friend