Are you tired of nouvelle cuisine, with all its precious decorations, waiters who describe every ingredient of a dish on the menu, and expensive checks that leave you hungry? Then I’ve got a treat for you! It’s S&P, at 174 Fifth Avenue: an old coffee shop and deli that’s been reopened and refurbished to look like it did in 1928. If you need more convincing, try the pancakes, the tuna melt, or the Flatiron Delight, which is packed with pastrami, cole slaw, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing on the best rye bread you’ve ever had. As a side, have the cottage fries, an old-fashioned pickled tomato, or the more classic dill. Dessert won’t let you down. So farewell nouvelle, hello real food in an authentic New York setting. —Louise Grunwald