Yes, the in-crowd will always flock to the Chateau Marmont across the street, and those in the know to the Sunset Tower, almost next door. But for me the Mondrian still offers a sensual thrill almost as strong as when it first opened. The way the all-white surfaces play off a blue sky and pool, the tables beside the pool at which saronged waitresses used to serve drinks above the lights, even the music-video elevators somehow cleanse and uplift me as few amenities can. If you’re not waylaid by the stately seclusion of the Huntington in Pasadena or the romantic (but now quite pricey) Malibu Beach Hotel, the Mondrian remains the one hotel this side of the Sukhothai in Bangkok that can awaken a memorable tingle. —Pico Iyer

Pico Iyer is a columnist at AIR MAIL