The problem with La Gelateria della Musica is that, once you’ve been there, you’ll struggle to enjoy any other gelato for the rest of your life. The owner, Fabio Brigliadoro, was a jazz musician before opening his ice cream business, and the flavors retain something of experimental jazz. He makes three to five types of pistachio on any given day—with chili, or ricotta, or whole, crunchy nuts. “I only use real fruit,” he told me. “No bags or semi-prepared products.” There’s a few locations around the city, and most are packed. Locals know to order a few flavors for home via Deliveroo. It travels well. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is the Senior Editor at AIR MAIL