There’s no sign outside, and no obvious door—finding Fiorin Fiorello Fiore, tucked into a residential courtyard near Corso Ventidue Marzo, feels like a small victory. Once inside, you part a heavy curtain to find steel counters, warm briarwood walls, and a ceiling light that shifts from yellow to red as the night gets going. Four friends built this together: Alberto Bloise, a creative director; Luca Fiore and Giorgio Miccoli, the duo behind the music label Ultimo Tango; and Alessio Cuozzo, from the fashion world. The result is 300-plus wines, small dishes for sharing, and a D.J. booth that, on Thursdays through Saturdays, quietly turns the place into a party. It’s neither an enoteca nor a club, which is exactly the point. Order a French white, find a seat at the bar, and plan to stay much later than you intended. —Elena Clavarino