Only fools believe the old adage that no one goes to Dan Tana’s for the food. Veal scaloppini? Steak and peppers? A chicken parm as big as a hubcap? In a town where comfort is rare as the rain, Dan Tana’s keeps them coming back by serving up food that makes anyone believe they are tucking in for a meal at an old friend’s home. In a city without pity, Dan Tana’s knows how to treat (and feed) people right. And with its wood-paneled walls and red banquettes that feel like they were boosted from a joint on Arthur Ave. back when the place opened 60 years ago, Tana’s snug room feels like a bit of New York City gone West. But thanks to guys like George Clooney who swing by for dinner, it’s always buzzy as hell. —Michael Hainey

Michael Hainey is a Writer at Large at AIR MAIL and co-hosts AIR MAIL’s weekly podcast, Morning Meeting