In 1979, the young Greek artist Konstantin Kakanias moved from Athens to Paris. He’d only recently turned 18 but enrolled at Studio Berçot to study fashion and art. Soon enough, the Italian artist and set designer Lila de Nobili took him under her wing. By the time he graduated he was creating textile designs for Christian Lacroix and Yves Saint Laurent—and illustrating for Vogue. In 1983, he spent a year in Luxor, Egypt, studying hieroglyphs. Since then, these esoteric symbols have made their way into his whimsical, cartoon-like drawings.

In 1996, Kakanias penned his heroine, Mrs. Tependris—a caricature of a high-society doyenne and art collector—for a New York Times Style Magazine article. The woman has since remained his alter ego, making recurring appearances in his canvases, comic strips, and stories. Since 1997, Kakanias has lived between Los Angeles and Greece, working on his art full-time. Here, the artist shares his go-to sights, bars, restaurants, and cafes in his hometown.

piraeus

Piraeus is the biggest port in Greece. It is its own city and has its own character, but it feels connected to Athens. I love strolling on the Piraiki, a seaside area with small harbors paved during antiquity. Walking on these large, ancient stones, and watching all kinds of people, is pure joy. Plus, Piraeus is practical. The boats are there to bring you to the Aegean islands.

Archaeological Museum of Piraeus

A small gem. On the second floor, there is a room dedicated to bronze statues, most of which were discovered in the sea. A wonder. (archaeologicalmuseums.gr)

Amber Cellar Bar & Restaurant

This restaurant is located in the new Mitsis N’U hotel, right outside the port of Piraeus. Inside, you’ll find a mural painted by yours truly. Perfect for a quick and delicious lunch or dinner before taking a boat to Crete or Patmos. You could also stay in the area—it’s only a 12-minute cab ride from the center of Athens. (mitsis.com)

Paleo Wine Store

A very delicious and atmospheric restaurant with fantastic wine. Sit outside—and be sure to make a reservation. (instagram.com)

Philopappos Monument

Now for Athens proper. This might be the best view of the Parthenon. Walk up the small hill opposite the Acropolis, where the paths are poetically designed by Dimitri Pikionis, the architect known for his influence on Greek Modernism.

Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos

A museum located in the archaeological site of Kerameikos, an ancient cemetery. Another small gem. (archaeologicalmuseums.gr)

BEnaki museum of islamic art

Next to Kerameikos. One of my favorite museums in Athens. (benaki.org)

Holy Monastery of Daphni

An 11th-century monastery built on the remnants of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo Daphnaios. It is of great importance, not only for its magnificent mosaics but also for its location on the Sacred Way, the ancient road connecting Athens and Eleusis (another must-visit).

National historical museum

An extremely interesting museum that exhibits paintings in an old-fashioned way. Founded in 1882, it is the oldest collection of relics devoted to the history of Modern Greece, spanning from the Fall of Constantinople in 1453 to the Second World War. The museum has been housed in the Old Parliament Building since 1960. I hope it will never be “touched” by renovations … (nhmuseum.gr)

Yannis Tsarouchis Foundation

The house and atelier of the great Greek artist Yannis Tsarouchis, who painted the Greek spirit like no one else. (tsarouchis.gr)

Queen’s Tower

A small castle built by Queen Amalia of Greece in the romantic mood of the mid–19th century. It is now part of a winery but still retains its original living room, which was painted by Bavarian artists. (pyrgosvasilissis.gr)

ta Kanaria

A perfectly old-school restaurant in a neighborhood called Moschato. It is quiet and has a small menu with the best fish and shrimp in town. It’s close to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, and it’s a good place to go before seeing an opera. Not to be confused with the Ta Kanaria in the center of Athens.

Gallina Athens

The newest sensation. Gallina serves ultra-modern Greek-ish food. It is delicious and has great service. Book in advance! (gallina.gr)

Athénée

To observe real Athenian life, have a drink or a meal at Athénée—where everything happens. Located in the very center of the city, it’s a good place for lunch, dinner, or anything in between. (atheneeathens.gr)

KICK

A coffee shop in Kipseli, a recently rediscovered neighborhood that hasn’t yet attracted the “uptown” crowd. It’s almost too cool, but the food is delicious, coming from the bakery next door. (instagram.com)

Martinos antique and fine art gallery

I could come here again and again. And again. Martinos is full of miracles ranging from antiques to embroideries to ceramics.