Had Tramjazz existed in 1959, Marcello and Sylvia might have climbed aboard and given the Trevi a miss. Candle-lit dinner and jazz on a tram that winds from the Porta Maggiore to the Colosseum: dolcezza enough for one night, surely. Why not pick this particular night, then, and hear Nino Rota’s music conjured on accordion and sax? —E.E.