We all know Paris and its ateliers were the epicenter of international fashion throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. Lesser known, however, is the pivotal role pearls played in this era. Van Cleef & Arpel’s L’École, School of Jewelry Arts takes up the subject with its exhibition on the Parisian history of the aquatic gem. During France’s Third Republic (1870–1940), almost every pearl harvested in the Persian Gulf was imported to Paris and acquired by iconic Place Vendôme jewelers such as Boucheron, Cartier, and, of course, VCA. Pearls played a starring role in fine jewelry of the Art Deco movement, and in the opera, photography, painting, dance, cinema, and design of the Roaring Twenties. The Parisian pearl trade also reflects the rich history of Eastern markets, globalization, and the evolution of Paris as the fashion capital of the world throughout the last two centuries. L’École’s glowing show features 100 glorious pieces.
—Lucy Horowitz