When his friend Julian Schnabel used the down-market gingham of Tati’s awnings as canvas for some paintings, it was just the nudge Azzedine Alaïa needed for his “Tati” collection. Alaïa, who died in 2017, was revered for his hands, which could tame any material. In 1991, with bolts of Tati cotton gingham in black, blue, and cherry-red, he fashioned a cheeky spring-summer collection that had the cut of couture. The 24 ensembles in this exhibition, curated by Olivier Saillard, add up to pure joie de vivre. —L.J.