My favorite Montreal establishment these days is a new, tiny bistro called Sabayon, located in the Pointe-Saint-Charles neighborhood and operated by the husband-and-wife team of Patrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin. She handles wine and service; he is the chef, perhaps best known for his stints as pastry chef of Les Chèvres and Les 400 Coups, both in Montreal and both now closed. Their new restaurant accommodates 14 guests three nights a week, accepting reservations at the start of each month and selling out in approximately two minutes. There is somewhat better news: they also offer tea service Friday and Saturday afternoons. This used to be less popular, selling out in 10 minutes. Lately it also has been selling out in two. —Alan Richman