Cy Schnabel grew up in the art world. His father, Julian Schnabel, made his ascent in the 1980s alongside the likes of Andy Warhol and Keith Haring. Schnabel’s mother, Olatz López Garmendia, is a designer and former model from San Sebastián. But instead of pursuing an art history degree, Schnabel studied political science at Bard College. “I spent a lot of time looking at art alone,” he told Elle last year, “reading, listening to other people, and not feeling confident enough to express my own opinions.”
When the pandemic broke out in 2020, he settled into Garmendia’s home on the Spanish coast. He spent days at the beach, finished a text about his uncle, the abstract artist Alejandro Garmendia, read about contemporary and modern artists, and watched movies. By fall, he opened an art gallery called Villa Magdalena on the ground floor of a townhouse which veers away from the white cube format. Since then, he has worked tirelessly, writing press releases for every show and curating group and solo exhibitions. Here, the 30-year-old curator shares his favorite spots in his adopted city.
Ganbara
A traditional Basque pintxos bar upstairs and a small dining room downstairs with an extensive menu including the best local fish, meat, vegetable dishes, and seasonal specialties which change throughout the year. They are famous for their mushrooms, and during the local tuna season, they serve the best tuna carpaccio I have ever tried. They also make the best pintxos in town—the quality of the ingredients and simple preparation exemplify the Basque culinary philosophy and make this one of the best places to eat in the world. (ganbarajatetxea.com)
elkano
The best turbot in the world. Elkano is located in Getaria, the town where the fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga was born, as well as Juan Sebastian Elkano, the Spanish navigator who completed the first circumnavigation of the earth. It’s one of the temples of the world for fish and seafood enthusiasts. This town is also where the majority of the production of the iconic Basque wine Txakoli is made. A beautiful coastal highway connects you to the neighborhing town, Zumaia. (restauranteelkano.com)
rekondo
A restaurant in Monte Igueldo with one of the most famous wine cellars in the world. They use the traditional Basque grilling and barbecue techniques and serve signature dishes from the region like Chipirones en su tinta (Baby squid in their own ink), Txangurro al horno (Donostia-style baked spider crab), and Kokotxas (Hake or cod cheeks).(rekondo.com)
el tamboril
Situated in one of the most beautiful plazas in the heart of the old town of San Sebastián, El Tamboril has the same owners as Ganbara. An incredible place to share everything and one of the most consistent kitchens in town.
antonio bar
This small bar is one of the most unpretentious and delicious places to eat in town (always go to the original location, on Calle Bergara). It’s almost impossible to understand how the size of this place is able to satisfy the demand. Bar Antonio has the most efficient and charismatic waiters in San Sebastián. You can’t go wrong with anything here: Anchovies, Jamón, squid, artichokes, scallops, oxtail, pickled tuna belly, white asparagus, chuleta. A great place to have a gin tonic or a glass of wine with a small bite. Don’t be dissuaded by the large crowds or the bad lighting. (antoniobar.com)
la rampa
A restaurant specializing in seafood and shellfish from the Cantabrian Sea. Situated in the old port of the city, it is in a charming setting that resembles a Basque fishing village. A great place to sit and eat outdoors. Try the turbot, sole meunière, sea bream, monkfish, Norway Lobster, langoustines, Scarlet shrimps, percebes, or clams. All of the ingredients are seasonal and there is a deep respect for ecological and sustainable local fishing practices (like most restaurants specializing in seafood in the region). (restaurantelarampa.com)
POKHARA, bar el nido, udaberri bar
Pokhara, as well as Bar El Nido and Udaberri Bar, are all located in the city center, just behind the Buen Pastor Cathedral. They are some of the most authentic and fun places to go in the city.
PARTE VIEJA
In Parte Vieja, or the Old Town, go to Akerbeltz, Hamabost, or Pub Terraza Txurrut. These are nice places to have a drink and enjoy the lively atmosphere of the city’s historical district.
DABADABA
A nightclub and live music venue with the best music programming in the city and one of the best in Spain. Dabadaba is an incredible venue for electronic music. (dabadabass.com)
Chillida-Leku
An outdoor sculpture garden and museum dedicated to the most internationally celebrated Spanish sculptor of the 20th century, Eduardo Chillida. El caserío Zabalaga (Zabalaga country house)—the main structure on the property built in the 16th century—is a work of art in itself. The house was restored by the artist and respects the architectural spirit of traditional Basque farmhouses. The large-scale steel and stone sculptures for which the artist is most well known feel like an extension of the landscape—as if they have always coexisted with nature in this sacred place. (museochillidaleku.com)
Hondalea
A permanent installation by the renowned artist Cristina Iglesias located in the reformed old lighthouse on the Isla de Santa Clara. Hondalea, which means “marine abyss” in Basque, is an homage to the sea and the unique rock formations found in the rugged Atlantic coastline surrounding San Sebastián. Represented by Marian Goodman Gallery, Iglesias is known for her large-scale installations and public sculptures. This is one of the artist’s most important and ambitious works and was the first public sculpture commissioned in her hometown of San Sebastián, in 2021. (donostia.eus)
CIBRIÁN
A contemporary art gallery, established in 2018 by Gregorio Cibrián, showing emerging and established artists. Cibrian has participated in prestigious art fairs such as Paris Internationale, ARCOmadrid, and Liste Art Fair in Basel. (cibrian.eu)
Tabakalera
A cultural center opened in 2015 inside a restored tobacco factory. It focuses primarily on promoting and supporting creative industries in the Basque Country. Some of their main activities include an exhibition program and the postgraduate film program Zine-Eskola. (tabakalera.eus)
Sanctuary of Arantzazu
A Franciscan sanctuary located in Oñati. Many well-known local artists, including Eduardo Chillida and Jorge Oteiza, have been invited to make permanent site-specific commissions that form part of the architectural complex. This sacred site holds a special place in the heart of the Basque people and has become a pilgrimage site for artists, architects, and religious and spiritual visitors.
The Comb of the Wind
A permanent land art installation by Eduardo Chillida at the end of the Paseo de La Concha, the walkway along La Concha beach. (sansebastianturismoa.eus)
