When the Nate ’n Al’s Delicatessen—the best Jewish deli in Beverly Hills—went out of business during the pandemic, the doors were shut for only a few weeks. The billionaire entertainment executive Irving Azoff, a longtime fan of the joint’s pastrami and rye, funded its revival. Los Angeles isn’t Los Angeles without its Jewish delis. Last spring, an exhibition at the city’s Skirball Cultural Center paid homage to Nate ’n Al’s and other L.A. Jewish delis past and present. The exhibition now comes to New York City, a town indelibly linked with the deli. Exploring the New York deli during the interwar years, its importance to immigrants and Holocaust survivors, the exhibition tells stories and displays menus, ads, neon signs, and uniforms from restaurants that make a specialty of Matzah ball soup and massive pickles. —Jensen Davis