In the fourth line of his 1816 dream poem, Kubla Khan, Samuel Taylor Coleridge refers to “caverns measureless to man,” an image that evokes the human unconscious and its mysterious traveling depths. In her exhibition at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele takes us through a black labyrinth of dreamscapes in which she illustrates key concepts of psychoanalysis—beginning with Sigmund Freud’s theories and coming up to present-day thinking—through dress and accessories. “The Phallic Woman.” “The Death Drive.” “The Mirror and The Gaze.” These are just three of the themes embodied by historic garments and contemporary couture. This super-smart yet viewer-friendly show is yet another feather in the cap of M.F.I.T. —Laura Jacobs
Arts Intel Report
Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis

Elsa Schiaparelli evening jacket, Spring 1939.
When
Until Jan 4, 2026
Where
227 W 27th St, New York, NY 10001, United States
Etc
Image © Francesca Galloway (Photograph Katrina Lawson Johnston).