If you were to ask the most stylish women in New York, “Who is the most stylish woman in New York?,” many would answer without hesitation: Maguy Le Coze. For the past 40 years, the restaurateur has been front and center at Le Bernardin, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant she co-owns with her partner, the chef Eric Ripert. Le Coze, who grew up in a small fishing village in Brittany, moved to Paris in 1972 with her brother, the chef Gilbert Le Coze. There, they opened Le Bernardin, which was such a smash that, in 1986, they moved to New York and made 155 West 51st Street the epicenter of refined seafood. Having just celebrated her 80th birthday, Le Coze is as stylish, and singular, as ever. —Ashley Baker
I live across the street from Le Bernardin so I am there quite often—I am always very careful about the way I am dressed because I set the standard. It’s been a Michelin three-star for the longest time—when we opened, women came in cocktail dresses. Now, men don’t even wear ties! I get nostalgic when I see this, but there is nothing we can do. But some of the younger clients come in very dressed up—so that, I like!
I used to wear a lot of Chanel, but not as much anymore, because they don’t make enough white. About four or five years ago, I noticed that everyone was wearing black, and I wanted to do something different. Whenever I see something white, I buy it. White jeans, white jackets, white T-shirts—they feel good on me, I can’t really explain why. I am not particular about the brands, but I still have a big collection of Chanel. At the restaurant, I wear Manolo Blahniks. Once, one of his colleagues came into the restaurant and gave me a picture that Manolo drew of me.
I am spending a lot of time in Mustique these days and wearing Havaianas flip-flops and bathing suits from Eres. But whenever I am traveling and see a white one, I buy it. Just no bikinis!
Herve [Merlino] has cut my hair for 25 years. He works at Julien Farel salon. I have a square-shaped bob, short, and with short bangs. When I am not in New York [to get it cut], it’s a problem! I’ve never colored my hair. I don’t have much white hair, so why should I do anything? In the morning, when I get out of the pool, I use a comb and then do this [musses her hair with her hands]. When I was 16 years old, I was blonde, and I got the same haircut as a famous singer called Sylvie Vartan. I don’t brush it!
I always prefer the way Parisian women are dressed. Even when they’re in New York, you can tell they’re Parisian—first, by their hair. American women can’t give up long hair—and blond hair. But when they are 70 years old, they should give up their long hair!
The less makeup I wear, the better I look. When I wear too much, I think I look older, so I’m as natural as I can be. What you see now is what I always have on: eyeliner below the eyes, eye shadow, and matte lipstick. I powder my face so the makeup stays on all day, and I never wear foundation. I always wear MAC lipstick and Bobbi Brown eye shadow, and I use products from Talika [a French skin-care line]—there’s a serum and a cream for the day and a cream for the night. I put some Shiseido [sunscreen] stick on my nose when I am in Mustique, so it doesn’t get red. That’s all. There are a lot of products that say they are natural, but I don’t trust them, so I buy most of my things at French pharmacies—any of them in Paris.
Plastic surgery … No. I am afraid that a mistake will be made. I haven’t had many injections or fillers, but I won’t say no forever. I don’t change much. I do what I want.
The chicest woman who ever walked into Le Bernardin? There are too many! The restaurant is almost 40 years old. Usually, when they come to Le Bernardin, they are chic.
Maguy Le Coze is a co-owner of Le Bernardin
