New York Fashion Week opened and closed on high notes, with signature shows from Ralph Lauren (though off-calendar) on Wednesday, September 9, and Thom Browne on the following Tuesday. They drew the fashion crowd into their very different created worlds, each domain ruled by a singular practical magic.

Across almost 60 years, Lauren has been doing his thing, repeating and advancing his finely honed tenets. This time, he crossed utilitarian and historical references, transforming both with mesmerizing artisanal touches, particularly in fabric surface treatments, that have become a defining element of his runway work.