Stissing House is the sort of place that comes to mind when picturing an Upstate restaurant: candle lighting, wooden interiors, fireplaces, and giant piles of butter. Plus, it’s got a history. Built in 1782 as a watering hole for the town of Pine Plains, it underwent numerous changes before 1995, when it reopened as a French restaurant, and then in 2022, when King’s Clare de Boer took over. Like many popular new spots in the area, its menu changes frequently, and is always designed to share. With a blend of New American and French food, expect items like bone marrow oysters, coal-roasted scallops, and trout with gigante beans. The little green salad is delicious, as are the wines and the desserts. —Jeanne Malle

Jeanne Malle is an Associate Editor at AIR MAIL