When Vik Muniz moved to New York in 1983, it was very much by chance. After being shot in the leg while breaking up a street fight in São Paulo, his hometown, he accepted a payout from the shooter in lieu of pressing charges. He used the money to fly to Chicago, worked a stint in a supermarket, and eventually saved enough to relocate to New York to open a sculpture studio. By 1989, he was staging his first solo shows, gaining acclaim for his witty, illusory style of photographing drawings and unconventional materials. His ascent was meteoric: a little more than a decade later, he was representing Brazil at the Venice Biennale.

Today, with his work hanging in the world’s most prestigious museums, Muniz is back in Brazil, dividing his time between São Paulo and Rio, where his wife hosts a fabled annual Carnival party. Here, he shares his guide to his adopted city.

Casa 201

This small neighborhood restaurant serves Brazilian farm-to-table ingredients, beautifully cooked with French rigor. It gained its first Michelin star in a little over three years, and its chef, João Paulo Frankenfeld, has become a rising star in Brazilian gastronomy since. (casa201.com)

Beco do Rato

A beloved, authentic samba spot. With live music that draws both locals and visitors, it feels like stepping into a traditional, laid-back samba circle, where the music, the crowd, and the atmosphere embody the true Carioca spirit. (becodorato.com.br)

ISABELA CAPETO

When it comes to fashion, no one translates the Carioca spirit better than Isabela Capeto. She brings a playful, brilliant, and colorful flair to Brazilian fashion. Although she’s made her mark in both local and international scenes, you can still visit her at her studio, in the Gávea neighborhood. (instagram.com)

Gávea Beach Club

There aren’t many beachside restaurants in the city, but this kiosk on São Conrado Beach is a great place to sip a caipirinha and have some of the best Italian food you’ll find in town. (gaveabeachclub.com.br)

Rio’s BEACH SPOTS

Different types of people are known to frequent different beaches in the city. My favorite is Arpoador, right at the very end of Ipanema. That’s where you’ll find the intellectual types, such as soap opera actors, painters, musicians, Marxist philosophers, and TikTok influencers—basically, the whole hedonistic creative class hangs out there.

ART GALLERIES

In Rio, art seems to emanate from everyone’s pores. If you’re looking to see contemporary work, I’d recommend Flexa, Nara Roesler Gallery, and Carpintaria. Some of are outposts of São Paulo galleries, but they’re all places where local artists often come to speak to local crowds. For that reason, I find that seeing contemporary art in Rio makes for a more intimate, laid-back, and unassuming experience.

SÍTIO BURLE MARX

A breathtaking cultural treasure where the wonderful landscape artist Roberto Burle Marx comes to life. Visitors can wander through lush gardens of native Brazilian plants, where nature and art come together seamlessly. It’s one of my favorite spots in town. (sitioburlemarx.org)

RUA DO SENADO

Rua do Senado was named the coolest street in the world by Time Out this year. The traditional spot in central Rio features a mix of historical charm and trendy cafés and galleries. You’ll find places such as Destilaria Maravilha, where you can try artisanal spirits, and Braseiro Labuta, known for its laid-back, hearty Brazilian food. It’s a street filled with unique and authentically Brazilian energy that will make you want to linger.

Rua do Lavradio

I’m an incurable hoarder, and to get my weekly fix, I often go treasure hunting on Rua do Lavradio—it’s packed with antique shops and hidden gems. Whether you’re after vintage mid-century Brazilian furniture or quirky little finds, you’re in for a variety of surprises.

Pedra Bonita

This is one of my favorite hikes in Rio. In just half an hour, you’ll walk through a lush segment of the Tijuca forest and get to see an astonishing view of the city from above. The fastest way down would be to take a paraglider all the way to San Conrado Beach, on the shoreline.