Growing up in Kathmandu, Nepal, Prabal Gurung was surrounded by fashion. His mother, a single parent, owned a boutique. Still, he never imagined he’d follow in her footsteps. As a teenager, Gurung moved to New Delhi to pursue a bachelor’s degree in hospitality. But the city’s creative energy inspired a change of heart: fashion was his calling after all. “From the brilliance of Bollywood to the fabrics, embroideries, and textures at Chandni Chowk, to the fast-paced streets of Mumbai,” he once said, “it’s an incredible place.” Gurung left school to work under the Indian designer Manish Arora.
In 1999, he moved to New York City to finish his studies at the Parsons School of Design. He interned with Donna Karan, worked for Cynthia Rowley, and in 2004 became the design director at Bill Blass.
Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Gurung has made waves dressing everyone from Oprah Winfrey to Kate Middleton. This month, he’s releasing his memoir, Walk Like a Girl, which celebrates the power of fashion and femininity. Here, the multifaceted designer shares his favorite sites, restaurants, and markets in his hometown.
ASAN
This chaotic, kaleidoscopic bazaar is a ballet of the senses. Spices, saris, incense, and vegetables jostle for attention. It’s the pulse of old Kathmandu, where I learned the beauty of contrast and color.
BOUDHANATH STUPA
Walking around this stupa at twilight, with monks murmuring mantras, is a meditative ritual. The Buddhist monument, bursting with Tibetan culture and serenity, is Kathmandu’s spiritual heartbeat.
MOKSH RESTAURANT
Gastronomy meets art at Moksh, a restaurant nestled in the neighborhood of Jhamsikhel, a 15-minute drive from the center of Kathmandu. This quaint establishment offers an opulent array of Nepali cuisine infused with global culinary inspirations. Whether you’re indulging in their food, sipping on their curated selection of drinks, or immersing yourself in the soulful live music that fills the space, Moksh promises a delightful experience. (instagram.com)
PASHUPATINATH TEMPLE
Both solemn and sacred, this Hindu temple complex by the Bagmati River is a testament to life’s impermanence and eternal cycles. Its cremation ghats humble me, and its evening aarti, a Hindu ritual, heals me.
Patan Durbar Square
Once a royal city of artisans, Patan is a beautiful place to see Newar architecture. I return here for inspiration—the gilded temples and hand-carved windows are a masterclass in craftsmanship. (patanmuseum.gov.np)
THAMEL
Touristic yet timeless, Thamel is a lively commercial neighborhood. It’s what many imagine when hearing stories about Kathmandu. I often walk here, captivated by its restless charm.
Bhaktapur
Frozen in time, Bhaktapur is a city just outside of Kathmandu. Its brick lanes, ceramic studios, and centuries-old temples offer a glimpse of medieval Nepal. Life, history, and art are all entwined here. I recommend renting Tahaja, a Newar-style guesthouse available on Airbnb. It’s a tranquil getaway just a 20-minute walk from the center of town.
Kirtipur
Kirtipur, perched on a hilltop outside of Kathmandu, is a town known for its terraced fields and red-brick houses. I come here for the slow pace and authentic Newar cuisine, which hasn’t changed in generations.
Kopan Monastery
High above the dust and din of Kathmandu, this monastic retreat is a place of stillness and reflection. I especially love the chanting, the views, and the saffron robes. (kopanmonastery.org)
Khokana/Bungamati
These two neighboring towns, south of Kathmandu, are associated with many fascinating tales and myths. Khokana is where mustard oil has been produced since ancient times, and Bungamati is the home of the much-revered deity Machhindranath. Her month-long chariot festival takes place there every year. Both of these towns are known for having many religious festivals tied to their unique indigenous heritage.
Nagarjun/Shivapuri
Nagarjun and Shivapuri, north of Kathmandu, are both excellent destinations for day hikes. You can walk in Nagarjun’s forest reserve, where the trail culminates at the Jamacho Monastery, or from Shivapuri to the village of Chisapani, which offers many places for respite and reflection. I often get back to Kathmandu by passing through the village of Sundarijal. It’s a beautiful and scenic route that I always recommend to my friends.
