By the time she was 12, Chiharu Shiota had already set her sights on becoming an artist. Her parents, who ran a fish box manufacturing company in Osaka, were skeptical, but they decided to support her studies at Kyoto Seika University. It was there, in 1994, that she created her first installation. Titled Becoming Painting, the piece involved her shaving her head and covering both her body and the surrounding walls in red enamel paint meant to resemble blood. It took months to scrub off.
In 1999, Shiota moved to Berlin for a master’s at Universität der Künste and never left. At first, she continued working with paint, but eventually began weaving vast webs of red thread and wool, evoking veins, vessels, and memory. Her approach resonated. She has since presented her work at museums around the world, and in 2015, she represented Japan at the 56th Venice Biennale.
Here, Shiota shares her favorite restaurants, cafés, sights, and shops in her hometown.

Nakanoshima Museum of Art
I recently had my solo exhibition, “I to Eye,” at this museum. It’s a great place to spend the morning or afternoon. The building is simple yet striking: from the outside, it looks like a black box, almost alien. I also recommend crossing the bridge to visit the National Museum of Art. (nakka-art.jp)
National Museum of Art
Visiting both museums allows you to discover two world-famous collections of contemporary art in one day. (nmao.go.jp)
graf studio
Not far from these museums, Graf Studio is a beautifully curated store offering furniture and home goods. You can also enjoy a delicious meal at their café. I particularly loved their 2008 collaboration with the artist Yoshitomo Nara. (instagram.com)
National Museum of Ethnology
I visit this museum when I want to learn more about the meaning of art. It showcases pieces from different tribes around the world, illustrating how art has always been connected to life. (minpaku.ac.jp)

Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko
This is the best place to learn about the Japanese tea ceremony. Named after Sen no Rikyū, a famous tea master from Osaka, and the poet Yosano Akiko, the museum takes visitors on a historical and cultural journey through the region. (sakai-rishonomori.com)

Doguyasuji Arcade
Doguyasuji Arcade is a 500-foot-long street in Osaka known for its kitchen and restaurant supplies. I visit every time I’m in town to buy new items to bring back to Germany. (doguyasuji.or)
Hanakujira honten
A long-established Oden restaurant with simple yet delicious food. Located near the Nakanoshima Museum, it’s a popular spot (and often has long lines).

Danjiri Matsuri
I was born in Kishiwada, a 30-minute drive from Osaka, and participated in this festival with my school as a child. The Danjiri tradition, celebrated every autumn, is over 300 years old. (city-kishiwada-lg-jp)
Okuizumo Onsen
This onsen, or hot spring, is not well-known, but it’s my favorite in Kishiwada, just a short distance from my parents’s home. The food is great, and the onsen blends perfectly with the surrounding nature. (okumizuma.jp)