Belonging is important to the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, but finding a place of belonging is not always easy. In his home country, Ai’s open criticism of the Communist government won him notoriety in the media, an arrest in 2011, and eventually lifelong exile. “I don’t see myself as a dissident artist,” he has said. “I see them as a dissident government!” Two years ago, after having lived in Germany and the U.K., and just as the pandemic was overwhelming the world, Ai moved to Portugal. “I now consider Portugal to be a place I will settle in,” he says. To honor his new home in the sunshine, Ai is putting on his largest exhibition ever. It’s also his first in Portugal. Filling over 40,000 square feet, the show presents 85 works. —E.C.