When the Nate ’n Al’s Delicatessen—the best Jewish deli in Beverly Hills—went out of business during the pandemic, the doors were shut for only a few weeks. The billionaire entertainment executive Irving Azoff, a longtime fan of the joint’s pastrami and rye, funded its revival. Los Angeles isn’t Los Angeles without its Jewish delis. An exhibition at the Skirball Cultural Center pays homage to Nate ’n Al’s and other L.A. Jewish delis past and present. On view are neon signs, menus, ads, and uniforms from restaurants that have served Matzah ball soup and massive pickles since the 1950s. —Jensen Davis