There I was, at the best hotel in the world, desperately hungover.

I’m not just throwing search engine–optimized terms around. Passalacqua is the best hotel in the world, according to a recent list published by the U.K.-based “50 Best” organization famous for its annual restaurant ranking. Passalacqua is a grand palazzo behind an even grander villa, whose front yard descends in a series of terraces—upon which sprout a fruit garden, a vegetable garden, an Italian garden, a rose garden, an olive grove, a fitness center whose windows open out to the olive grove, a tennis court, a pool, an outdoor cinema, and another villa—which will eventually arrive at the shore of Lake Como, its white-tipped waves bobbing in the wind.