It’s the opening that North Forkers have been griping about for three summers. The one they hated in advance, with its city chef and its renovation of a motel that had been owned by the same Greenport family since 1957—no matter that the brown-shag-carpeted rooms had become so sordid that numerous film and photo shoots took place here. Making the North Fork attractive is not unlike cooking: when the ingredients are this perfect, you really don’t need to do much. Enter chef-owner Ryan Hardy. He is adept at making the rich happy, giving them a downtown experience with an extensive wine list. After a stint at Aspen’s celebrated restaurant at the Little Nell hotel and working as Jay-Z and Beyoncé’s private chef in N.Y.C., he opened Charlie Bird in SoHo in 2013. The Italian-leaning menu and hip-hop-accented room and playlist continue to draw those curious about natural wines, but the city’s Burgundy aficionados, who pair rare bottles with Tuscan fried chicken, are among the restaurant’s animating forces. —Christine Muhlke