Tessa Tran has barely known a life outside of Chan Luu. Her aunt, who was born in Vietnam and moved to Los Angeles in the 1970s, founded the eponymous fashion and jewelry brand in 1996. As a child, Tran watched her work up close, creating pieces rooted in Vietnamese heritage.
After graduating from UC San Diego in 2009 with a degree in economics, Tran joined the family business as an intern. By 2016, she’d become the Creative Director, and four years later, the C.E.O. In 2023, she bought the company back from the private equity firm that had acquired it.
For Tran, preserving the brand’s original vision remains paramount. Though based in Los Angeles, she regularly visits Hanoi and the jewelry factory that Luu built an hour’s drive from the city. Here, the designer shares her favorite spots in Vietnam’s capital city.
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
My favorite hotel in Hanoi. I love it for its colonial style and history—you can still feel the lingering glamour of French Indochina. The breakfast room is beautiful and feels like a greenhouse. Every morning, I have a small bowl of pho for breakfast and sit in the corner window seat. It’s also fun to pop into the Hermès store inside the hotel. And Le Beaulieu, its fine dining restaurant, is great if you’re in the mood for a beef Wellington or a finely prepared multi-course meal. (sofitel.accor.com)
Bát Tràng
The Metropole serves its pho in small ceramic bowls adorned with a green ivy floral print. I recently turned one over to see where they’re made, and wasn’t surprised to see it say Bát Tràng. I visit the pottery village every time I’m in Hanoi, but during my last trip, I made it a mission to find the exact bowls from the Metropole. I found them, as well as matching plates and matching soup spoons, and bought a set of ten. I use them all the time back home.
Bún cha Bà Thanh
When it comes to street food, the biggest tip is to eat with your eyes. If something looks good and clean, and the place is busy, it’s probably safe to eat. I love streetside bún cha, or grilled pork patties made with lemongrass and served with vermicelli noodles, herbs, and a fish sauce broth. Bun Cha Ba Thanh, on Cau Go Lane, was fabulous enough to be bookmarked on my Google Maps.
Bánh xèo Sáu Phuoc
I love a restaurant that only serves one dish. Bánh xèo is a crispy rice pancake filled with meat or seafood and eaten with herbs. At this spot, they serve it with rice paper so you can wrap everything up like a spring roll. You sit on metal stools and only see locals.
Cha Ca La Vong
Created in 1871, this is another famous northern Vietnamese dish—turmeric fish grilled tableside and eaten with fresh dill and scallions. There used to be a delicious restaurant called Cha Ca La Vong that solely served the dish.
Chè Ngon Ít NgOt
Located on a quiet, charming street, Chè Ngon Ít Ngot serves the best bowl of chè—a Vietnamese dessert usually made with pandan jelly, seeds, beans, fruit, and coconut milk, or whole milk or cream. I grew up on this and fruit instead of chocolate and cakes. I always find it so clever and creative when cultures turn something unexpected, like beans, seeds, and whole foods, into dessert. This place is a short walk from the Metropole.
Gia Studios
It’s The Row of Hanoi. Lam Gia Khang’s designs turn sculpted fabrics into flowy silhouettes. The color palette is usually neutral. (gia-studios.com)
The Dark Gallery
A multi-label streetwear concept store. Stop by if you’re in the mood to try on something like a pair of Rick Owens Gore-Tex sneakers. (thedarkgallery.vn)
No Concept
A very well-curated men’s-wear store. My brother once bought a Ring Jacket sports coat and a tie from their in-house brand. Their packaging was impressive. I also bought one of my favorite pairs of trousers there, from Studio Nicholson. Upstairs, there’s a chic little café. (noconcept.vn)
ViinRiic Galeries de Parfums
Some of the most unusual perfumes I’ve ever seen. I discovered Mendittorosa fragrances here. Each bottle is a piece of art. (viinriic.com)
Streetside Goyard
There are tons of fakes on the street in Hanoi. I’m not usually into it and hate how they make some streets look, but I have to admit I do buy a $10 Goyard tote each time I visit. I usually use one to wrap a white elephant gift at the end of the year. It’s guaranteed to be stolen at least twice!
Tanmy Design
This three-floor shop is where I buy all my bedding and embroidered cotton slips. I love Vietnamese embroidery details on my bedding, homewares, and sleepwear. They also sell home goods, clothing, and ornaments. A recent purchase I adore is a squirrel-shaped bookmark made from buffalo horn and wrapped in sterling silver. The store is family-run and over 50 years old. You’ll see photos on the wall of the Tan My sisters with Bill Clinton and other celebrities who have visited over the years. (tanmydesign.com)
Cafés
There are lots of great coffee spots in Hanoi where you can try Vietnamese egg coffee, the classic drink made with condensed milk. I usually like simple and casual spots with outside seating. There are a few cafes surrounding the square by the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, which is great for people watching while squatting on a low stool, having an iced coffee, eating sunflower seeds, and having a Vinataba cigarette.
Dinh Le Street
A street in the Old Quarter with a bunch of independent bookstores. I bought my first book by Thich Nhat Hanh (Peace Is Every Step) here, which changed my life in a subtle but lasting way. His thinking has changed how I deal with stress and the pressures of running a business. In the first chapter, he suggests practicing smiling—when you’re smiling, he says, your mouth is like a boat catching life’s good fortune. When you frown, it’s an upside-down boat, and all good things slide past you.
HANG GAI STREET
A gallery-filled street. One of my favorite paintings I’ve bought was by a young Vietnamese artist whose father is a professor at the Vietnam University of Fine Art. It’s of a red cow with an oversized rectangular body—a shape referencing traditional Vietnamese houses with thatched roofs. I’m still eyeing a piece by Vuong Van Thao and might purchase it on my next visit.
