Glasswork runs in Marcantonio Brandolini’s family. His mother, Marie Brandolini, unveiled her first collection of Murano glasses in 1994, after spending hours on the Venetian island watching maestros blow goti, or rough-hewn tumblers made from leftover scraps. Enthralled by what she called a “pure game of chance,” she produced her first series of unwieldy creations, also called the Goto, and quickly became known as the “Glass Countess.”

In 2016, three years after his mother died, Marcantonio stepped in as the artistic director of her company, Laguna~B, continuing to run it from his family’s home in Palazzo Brandolini, on the Canal Grande, where he also set up his own art studio.

Here, he shares his guide to his hometown.

Murazzi Spiaggia libera

Start your day with a five-mile run at the Lido’s Murazzi beach. You can arrive there by boat or water bus, the latter of which you take to Santa Maria Elisabetta, and then get on a bus to Palazzo del Cinema. (google.com)

Ristorante Ai Murazzi

After your run, you can stop at Ristorante Ai Murazzi for a glass of water and a coffee.

TRATTORIA AL PONTE DI BORGO

For lunch at the Lido, perhaps after a swim, go to this trattoria, also known as Mauretto. Mauro, the owner, always has a smile on his face—you can see he’s passionate about making people happy. You might have to wait a bit for a table; once you sit down, order the Spaghetti alla Malamocchina. (google.com)

BAR ALL’ARCO

If you don’t feel like going for a run, you can also stop by All’Arco in the morning. They do really good sandwiches with meat and fish that they find in the local market. Go before nine A.M., otherwise it gets too crowded and you’ll miss the transport-industry workers having their second breakfast.

Cantiere Crea

In the late morning, go see Crea, the shipyard on the island of Giudecca. I worked there when I was 15, and it’s where I understood the excitement of making something from scratch. It’s not meant for tourism, but just pretend you got lost and people are usually cool. (google.com)

HARRY’S DOLCI

After visiting the shipyard, go to Harry’s Dolci. It’s the ultimate classic. (cipriani.com)

Laguna~B

In the afternoon, stop by the Laguna~B shop. It’s the best spot to find everyday glassware, and if I’m there, I’ll be happy to give you a tour of my studio, which is not far from the store. (lagunab.com)

Amadi BRUNo

If you’re in the mood to continue shopping, go to Bruno Amadi’s store. He makes the most sophisticated miniature insects, fruits, and animals. It’s an affordable collection to start.

Basilica S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Frari is a great church to visit. It’s so undervalued, but maybe it’s better this way as not many people visit it.

La Bottiglia

From Frari you can go for a glass of wine at La Bottiglia, where you’ll probably see me and some friends having an afterwork drink. (instagram.com)

Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

Schiavi is another place for wine and cicchetti, or Venetian snacks. (cantinaschiavi.com)

BEPI ANTICO 54 da LORIS

This place and the next are both good for dinner. They’re also close to each other, so if one doesn’t have space go to the other (typically, if they both tell you they’re full over the phone, you can go and pretend you’re desperate). Bepi Antico da Loris is a real Venetian spot, except they don’t serve baccala.

Osteria Giorgione da MASA

The other is Giorgione da Masa, an authentic Japanese restaurant that doesn’t serve sushi. (instagram.com)

Vini da Arturo

This restaurant feels so much like home that I always forget to mention it. (vinidaarturo.com)

Oltre Il Giardino

Stay at Oltre il Giardino, a hotel that feels more like a country house. Its owner are friends of mine. (oltreilgiardino-venezia.com)

Hotel Flora

A cozy hotel with a nice garden in the heart of town. (hotelflora.it)

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