“I don’t like to look at the past. I like to look forward,” says Charles de Vilmorin. Especially wise words when you consider the French fashion designer is just 24.

In June of last year, de Vilmorin took the fashion world by storm with the launch of his eponymous label, which quickly gave Paris Fashion Week the edgy, millennial touch it was missing. His debut couture show, which came just eight months later, was similarly revolutionary: the young designer performed as the opening model in a collection of hand-painted quilted jackets evoking Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful, oversize Nana sculptures. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and Jean Paul Gaultier praised the work as visionary.