In my previous novel, The Postcard, I told the story of my mother’s Jewish family. With Finistère, I turn to the other side of my heritage, that of my father’s Breton roots. It’s a very different adventure, a completely new journey.
Brittany has experienced a tourist boom in the last few years, for many reasons. First, its climate is soft and luminous—even if, I’ll admit, the occasional shower can catch you off guard in the summer—and above all, its wildness. The landscapes are striking: sometimes reminiscent of Ireland, sometimes of Corsica or Croatia, and even, in certain places, of the Mediterranean vegetation of Formentera. It’s rare to encounter such a spectacular natural wonderland.
Many Europeans travel to Brittany every summer, though Americans rarely venture there. I can only encourage them to come discover these lands, where the spirit of Celtic legends still lingers.
Because my novel is called Finistère—a word that in French literally means “the end of the earth”—I would like to share with you a few treasured places in this unique region, known as the “land of the artichoke,” and especially the town of Saint-Pol-de-Léon. This is where my book begins, with my great-grandfather founding the first agricultural union of Léon farmers.
Saint-Pol-de-Léon Cathedral
This cathedral is splendid. Built in the purest Gothic Breton style, it has magnificent stained glass windows depicting a dragon hunt. As a child, I was fascinated by the cathedral’s mysterious “Étagères de la Nuit,” or the shelves lined with strange skull boxes.
Books in Room
Just a few hundred feet from the cathedral, this wonderful bookstore has an English-language section, posters, and a lovely selection of stationery, as well as a charming tea room serving delicious cakes. (instagram.com)
Auberge La Pomme d’Api
La Pomme d’Api is a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant set in a beautiful 17th-century stone house. Best known for its hare à la royale, lightly seared langoustines, and strawberry-rhubarb vacherin (a French ice cream cake), it’s retained its star since 2014. More recently, its owners opened La Pomme de Reinette, a bistro, tea room, and tapas bar offering more affordable daytime menus. (lapommedapi.com)
Hôtel de France
Housed in an elegant 1930s building designed by the Breton architect Olivier Mordrelle, this charming three-star hotel is in the heart of Saint-Pol-de-Léon’s historic center, just steps away from the cathedral. Guests can have their breakfast in the garden, where magnolias, hydrangeas, and eucalyptus flourish. Non-guests are welcome to stop in for a drink. The hotel offers electric bike rentals by the day. (hotel-saint-pol.fr)
marché aux bouquinistes
Every Friday in July and August, booksellers set up shop on the Place du Parvis, in the shadow of the cathedral. The largest market of its kind in northern Finistère, it attracts many readers every week. It’s an unmissable event for literature enthusiasts, collectors, and anyone on the hunt for literary treasures. Don’t hesitate to ask for Yvon Porz on my behalf—he will be happy to show you his remarkable trove of vintage postcards.
La Boulangerie Du Kreisker
This bakery stands on the very street where my great-grandfather once lived! It offers superb baguettes and an array of delicious pastries, including the Breton specialties that delighted my childhood (and continue to do so today): the far breton with prunes, the croûte à thé, and the kouign-amann. After building up your strength and calorie count, you can climb the 174 spiral steps of the Kreisker spire for a breathtaking view.
Armor-Lux
Originally from Britanny, Armor Lux is more than a mere clothing brand—it embodies an entire way of life inspired by the nautical universe. Known for its craftsmanship and deep-rooted respect for tradition, the brand continues to create emblematic pieces of Breton culture—from striped sailor shirts and pea coats to vareuse jackets and knitwear—by blending authenticity, quality, and timeless elegance. (armorlux.com)
Plage du dossen
If you take your bike and ride about four miles from Saint-Pol-de-Léon, you’ll discover “Le Dossen,” the little hamlet where I spent my holidays as a child.
Le Dossen has become something of a sanctuary for surfers. In the 80s, when I was a child, they were an incredibly rare sight, one or two at most, and we thought of them as lovable eccentrics. We weren’t in California, after all, and the world of surfing felt like a distant dream. Today, the beach, open to the English Channel, gracefully catches the swells from the west and northwest. Its waves, rising on the sand, break gently, and far from the rocky reefs, making the terrain safe for beginners and seasoned surfers alike. The wind, a loyal companion, dances over the shoreline, drawing in kitesurfers and windsurfers as if inviting them to play with the elements. Everywhere, in the salty air and changing light, the beauty of the area astonishes and enchants—a beauty that takes your breath away and holds it. During the summer, children can take surfing lessons—I can personally attest that my daughter and niece were delighted by theirs!
beach break, le dossen
A waterfront restaurant and bar, overlooking the Île de Sieck, where you can sink into the tranquility of the setting and play board games after a surfing lesson or shrimp fishing with a hand net. They serve crêpes and other dishes made from locally sourced and eco-conscious ingredients, craft beers from the Île de Batz or the Île de Carantec, and seaweed tartar from the Roscoff commune, always favoring short supply chains. The spot comes alive with regular events, from concerts to tattoo workshops. (beachbreaksantec.com)
