Washing your face shouldn’t be complicated, yet it’s somehow become a multi-step, multi-product, time-consuming ordeal. There are wipes to remove makeup (incompletely), oils and balms to melt waterproof mascara and long-wearing foundation, and micellar waters, foams, or gel cleansers to clear off the film left by the oils.
As everyone who’s ever had a mother knows, you want to remove your makeup before you go to bed because makeup can trap oils, pollution, and skin cells on the face. And that, as your mother told you, can cause breakouts. Also, you’re not a barbarian. What’s more, if you don’t remove all this gunk, your skin will be less likely to absorb the expensive, beneficial ingredients in your serums and creams.
We asked AIR MAIL LOOK’s cosmetic chemist, Javon Ford, how to get clean without stripping your skin or turning your morning and nighttime routines into a full-time job.—Linda Wells
Personally, I don’t double cleanse. Even when I wear makeup, I don’t double cleanse because the cleansers I use are good enough for removing all the stuff by themselves.
If you’re wearing a full face of makeup, an oil cleanser can help break down the makeup more quickly, but I don’t subscribe to the idea that you have to use an oil cleanser to remove sunscreen. Regular cleansers are designed to do that well.
A hydrating cleanser may not dissolve every last trace. But something like CeraVe or Cetaphil does sweep away all of that. You might have to use a cloth of some kind to get more exfoliating, scrubbing action, but you don’t necessarily need a classic cleanser, an oil cleanser, and a foam.
If you’re wearing a lot of makeup, you may want to start by going over your face with micellar water on a pad. Makeup wipes do the same thing, but I don’t think they’re as effective.
The micellar waters from Garnier and Bioderma are really good. They’re basically really, really dilute cleansers. The micelles contain a special surfactant that’s safe to be left on the face without rinsing it off. It won’t irritate the skin. A lot of facial cleansers can be irritating when they sit on the skin for prolonged periods of time.
The surfactants in a micellar cleanser have a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail to attract dirt and grime, including oil-based makeup. It’s gentle enough to use on your eyes. It should remove your makeup in a couple of swipes.
Just be sure not to rub your eyes when you’re cleaning off your makeup. If you’re wearing a waterproof formula, you may need an oil-based cleanser followed by a gentle, classic cleanser. And, yes, that’s double cleansing. I’m sorry about that.
Javon Ford is a Los Angeles–based cosmetic chemist. He posts highly informative lessons, reviews, and myth-busting content on TikTok and Instagram @javonford16
