Gel manicures seem ideal for anyone who’s a little clumsy, busy, or uninterested in visiting the nail salon every week. The gels work by forming a hard, shiny, budge-proof seal over the nails when they’re cured under a UV or LED lamp. The resulting polish can last two to three weeks without a chip. But, wouldn’t you know, there’s a hitch. The EU recently banned a chemical, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), used in many gel polishes. We asked our cosmetic chemist, Javon Ford, to explain the risks of gel and how to protect your nails and your health.—Linda Wells
I’ve gotten gel manicures, so I can speak about my experience and the science behind them. The way that gel and acrylics work is you start with what’s called a monomer, which is one type of molecule, and the UV lamp cures it. That causes it to crosslink with itself and create a polymer. And that’s how you get that nice, strong gel that does not come off easily.
People can develop allergies or sensitivities over time when the acrylate in the polish reacts with the skin. It happens with repeated use over time. It helps to go to a professional rather than applying the gel at home, because you might be sloppy and get the polish on your skin. You don’t want it to touch the skin. Once you become sensitive to the acrylate monomer from gel polish, you really have a problem because acrylates are in everything: Hair products, sunscreens, moisturizers, mascaras, eyeliners, and more.
Even removing the gel polish is troubling. It typically requires a drill, which can weaken the nail bed. It happened to me when the technician put on a too-thick layer of gel and removed it later with a drill that damaged my nail bed. It took months to get my nails back to full strength.
But that’s not as serious as an acrylate sensitivity. That can really mess you up.
I know a lot of people are concerned about the cancer risk or skin damage from the UV lamp that cures the gel, but the bigger hazard is premature wrinkling rather than any feasible cancer risks. Some salons use LED lights, but they also emit UV radiation.
To protect yourself, you can apply sunscreen to your hands.
Another issue is with TPO, a chemical in some gels that helps them harden. The EU banned this chemical because, when it was force-fed to animals at high concentrations, it caused fertility issues. The key words are “force fed.” The concentrations were much higher than any human would reasonably be exposed to, especially via ingestion. As a result, most brands have switched to TPO-free formulas.
If you still want to get a gel manicure with a TPO-free polish, you should have it removed with acetone, not with a drill. The technician will apply the acetone to your nails and wrap your fingers in foil for 20 minutes. It’s inconvenient, and it will dry out your hands and cuticles, but that’s easy to fix. Just apply moisturizer and cuticle oil, and you’re good to go.
Javon Ford is a Los Angeles–based cosmetic chemist. He posts highly informative lessons, reviews, and myth-busting content on TikTok and Instagram @javonford16
