Despite their popularity, spray sunscreens are not beloved by dermatologists. But are they really so bad? We asked our favorite cosmetic chemist, Javon Ford, to examine them under a microscope and give AIR MAIL LOOK his verdict. For more of his highly informed opinions, check out his TikTok and Instagram accounts @javonford16. His new line, Javon Ford Beauty, launched last month with a gel blush called Sun-Kissed Cheek Stain in Georgia Peach, which sold out pretty much immediately.
Dermatologists tend not to like spray sunscreens, because they don’t give you enough coverage, which is true. They leave gaps as the spray dissipates in the air before it can fully coat your skin.
But I think that if something is simple and that simplicity encourages people to use it, then it’s not a bad thing.
You can help by spraying the skin and then rubbing in the sunscreen. If you do multiple layers and build up the product, you can make sure it’s touching the full surface area of your body. In other words, don’t just spray it and leave it.
It’s easier to apply a spray than a lotion, which can be sticky and oily. And if people are uncomfortable with a lotion or cream, they might not use sun protection at all. So just from a purely practical perspective, yes, you can use the spray. It’s still better than not wearing sunscreen at all.
If you find a tube of sunscreen from last summer in your beach bag, you should be O.K. After three years, though, the active ingredients expire and don’t provide enough protection. Usually, the expiration date is stamped on the bottom of the bottle or tube. No matter what, don’t store your sunscreen in your car where the heat will quickly make it useless.
Javon Ford is a Los Angeles–based cosmetic chemist
