If beauty reviews have taken over your social-media feed, then you may be in need of a reality check. Meet Javon Ford, a cosmetic chemist who cuts through the drama, the bluster, and the completely wacky with a good dose of legitimate science. His research-rich TikTok videos on makeup, skin care, and hair care are a happy marriage of entertainment and accuracy. This month, for Air Mail Look, he analyzes the mysterious watery liquids called “essences.”
An essence is a Korean concept. The idea is that it helps increase the penetration of the active ingredients in your skin-care products by wetting the face before you apply a serum.
Do you need them? They’re an option, but as long as your face is wet when you’re applying a serum, then maybe not. The point is, in an essence, the ingredients themselves don’t magically increase the penetration of the active ingredients in other products.
A lot of people claim benefits from essences. The SK-II essence that’s popular may help reduce inflammation, but I can’t substantiate that. These essences can help with an anti-inflammatory response because they’re usually made from fermented derivatives, like the yeast ferments that you get from making kombucha.
Essences are typically expensive. I don’t think they do anything profound like reduce wrinkles or make a difference to my routine, so I don’t invest in them. I always say start simple. If you feel you’re missing something, then add on.
Javon Ford is a Los Angeles–based cosmetic chemist
