The Odeon Herodes Atticus on the slope of the Acropolis postdates the birth of tragedy by many centuries, yet what other stage can touch it as a prototype of the ancient theater? Too, this is the place where the new-born Greek National Opera showcased the very young Maria Callas in Fidelio in the dark years of W.W. II. The idea of experiencing Puccini’s Japanese weepie in this place seems at once incongruous and strangely compelling. —Matthew Gurewitsch