J.J. Martin spent her twenties in New York, far from the world of design. After graduating from the University of California at Berkeley, she moved to Manhattan and took a job in advertising at Calvin Klein. In her free time, she developed a passion for everything vintage, unaware that the interest would transform her life. “I became kind of addicted,” she told Harper’s Bazaar in 2020. “I’d go to the Chelsea Flea Market every single weekend. I loved the thrill of finding an incredible fur coat for $12.”
In 2001, Martin followed her now-ex, Andrea Ciccoli, to his native Milan, and started over as a journalist, writing for Harper’s Bazaar US, the Wall Street Journal, and Wallpaper. But she couldn’t knock the vintage habit. In 2015, she turned it into La DoubleJ, an online magazine and shop selling pieces from her own collection of jewelry and clothing. Then, after a visit to the archives of Mantero, one of Lake Como’s oldest silk houses, she sketched a simple twill dress and had an idea: perhaps she could design the clothes herself.
Lake Como has since given Martin more than patterns. In 2022, Martin designed the pool and lounge area at Passalacqua, the 18th-century villa in Moltrasio that the hotelier Valentina De Santis converted into a 24-suite hotel. “I feel like I’m the only person in Milan who loves Como,” Martin says. Here, she shares her favorite spots around the lake.
Passalacqua
Truly heaven on earth. I can think of no better hotel in terms of look, feel, food, atmosphere, nature, service, and intimacy. The owner, Valentina de Santis is a friend, and she asked La DoubleJ to design the pool and bar area. Even when I can’t get a room, I go there to swim and sit barefoot under one of Valentina’s many 300-year-old cedar trees to ground myself and meditate. (passalacqua.it)
Locanda La Tirlindana
A super casual and boisterous family-run locanda where you can dip your feet in the lake water. It’s a great spot if you’re out on a boat and want to stop for a classic Italian lunch. I love their lemon ravioli. (instagram.com)
DA LUCIANO
I like this little wine bar and cafe. Once a butcher’s shop, it now has a beautiful vintage feel and sells gorgeous local products. It’s casual and is mostly frequented by locals. (instagram.com)
RESTAURANT AL VELUU
Al Veluu is one of my favorite places for dinner. It’s high up on the mountain so it takes a bit of effort to get to, but it’s worth it—the outside terrace has the most spectacular views of the lake. (alveluu.com)
PASTICCERIA POLETTI
They have excellent coffee and pastries. It’s not the fanciest place in the world, but then again, it’s very Italian to have amazing food in a humble environment. (instagram.com)
Villa del Balbianello
I’m obsessed with exploring Italian villas wherever I go. In Como, my favorite is Balbianello. (Villa Carlotta is a close second—I’m a sucker for 18th-century frescoes). Every boat tour drives by Villa del Balbianello, but it’s worth actually getting off to walk around the extraordinary gardens and immerse yourself in their grandeur. Inside the villa, gorgeous rooms are filled with ancient collectibles. (fondoambiente.it)
WATER SKIING
In all my years going to the lake, I’ve probably seen five people water ski. I’ve always found it weird, but I’ve chalked it up to the area catering more to fancily dressed people cruising the lake in Riva yachts. Water skiing isn’t popular, but you can do it and you should. Hire a boat from your hotel, from Wakeboard Lake Como, or from Como Boat Life. Go very early—I love a 7 A.M. wake up.
Varenna
Everyone visits Bellagio, and you should, too, but I actually prefer this tiny town. It’s in the north of the lake, an area where much of the original simplicity and charm have been preserved. There are no fancy boutiques, just tiny, no-name shops. I love wandering the cobblestone streets and stumbling upon a nice vintage piece or an old cameo.
L’ORRIDO DI NESSO
Most private boat tours will take you to Nesso, a charming speck of a town with an old stone bridge and a waterfall tucked behind it. What I like to do is dive off the boat and swim back toward the falls. It’s a little dicey: the water is dark, and once you reach the rocks, there’s some steep, slippery climbing. But make it there and you’ll find yourself in a frigid pool under a massively powerful waterfall, blasting you with ice-cold water. It’s the most transcendental experience one can have on the lake. You can also access Nesso from the street above—it takes thousands of stairs, but it’s a great work out.
Como
Most tourists bypass the town of Como, which sits at the southern tip of the lake, but I like it because it’s where many of my local Comaschi friends live. There are plenty of great things to do and see, like visiting the gorgeous cathedral. For lunch, I love Figli dei Fiori, a darling restaurant inside a flower shop.
