Monuments, museums, hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, sights—the Eternal City is an embarrassment of riches, and a source of endless pleasure. AIR MAIL has cut through the fluff to direct you to the places and pastimes that mustn’t be missed.
Rome
Hotels
Campo Marzio
J.K. Place Roma
This delightful, 30-room property in a 17th-century building that was once Rome’s School of Architecture is perfectly located just off the Via Condotti. Its attitude: welcoming guesthouse, with a warm, low-key check-in in the beautiful living room. The midcentury décor continues upstairs with four-poster rosewood beds, dark-wood paneling, and bathrooms accented with white marble.
Campo Marzio
Hotel Locarno
If you’re looking for old-world charm, Hotel Locarno, which overlooks Piazza del Popolo, always delivers. Many of the rooms look like they haven’t been updated since 1925, the year it opened, but the service is five-star. Prices hover at around a friendly—for Rome—$500 a night. Federico Fellini and his colleagues were known to meet at the bustling cocktail bar, which spills over into the plant-clad patio, and many Romans still come for a glass of wine and stay for a martini or two.
Campo Marzio
Hotel de Russie
If you ask any Italian to reveal their favorite hotel in Rome, most will respond without hesitation: the Hotel de Russie. The Giuseppe Valadier–designed, 19th-century building is nestled between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna and has a romantic garden with palm trees and roses climbing the building’s façade. Even those who are staying elsewhere should stop by the garden, a magical setting for an aperitivo.
Centro Storico
G-Rough
Young people who intend to combine sightseeing with socializing should check into G-Rough, a design-minded hotel near the Pantheon. The Web site states that “this house is not a hotel,” and it certainly doesn’t feel like one—there are only 10 bedrooms in this 17th-century building, each featuring fun, exuberant décor. Kick back with a margarita in the gallery bar, a popular hangout for the city’s designers.
Campo Marzio
Bulgari Hotel Roma
If quiet luxury feels a little passé, the Bulgari—with 114 suites, a spa, a pool flanked by colonnades, and, most importantly, cosseting service—will suit you perfectly. The original 1940s building was recently revamped by Milanese architect Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel, and the imperial marble that fills the lobby is only the beginning of its opulence. Champagne and cocktail bars, a cozy lounge, and a pastry shop on the premises are among its amenities. The luxury linens in the guest rooms include high thread counts and a full menu of pillows. Enjoy a Negroni on the terrace, where the views span from Villa Medici to the Tiber.
Restaurants
Monti
Rocco Ristorante
Don’t even think about showing up before nine P.M. That’s when Rome’s beau monde descends upon this spectacular trattoria in quasi-suburbia. There are white tablecloths, but the food is fuss-free and hews to the classics. Try to find fault with this place; its charming owner, Sara; or its menu. If you do, we’ll cover your bill. And if you spot fashion designer Alessandro Michele holding court with some other beautiful people, don’t be surprised.
Campo Marzio
Dal Bolognese
Perched on the corner of Piazza del Popolo, Dal Bolognese is the perfect place to enjoy the sun, especially in the fall. Its charming, verdant patio is a civilized affair, with a much-loved menu of Italian stalwarts. A starry hangout since its early days, Gianni Agnelli loved the salads, Elton John devoured the pasta, and Karl Lagerfeld once hosted a Chanel party there that became the stuff of legend.
Centro Storico
Armando al Pantheon
Sitting in the shade of ancient Rome’s best-preserved monument, erected during Augustus’s reign, Armando Gargioli opened the doors of his restaurant in 1961. Today, it remains a family-run affair. The tiled floors and walls take us back to that stylish era. In the wintertime, tuck into the carciofi alla Romana and puntarelle with anchovies.
Trevi
Ristorante Trattoria al Moro
Since its opening, in 1929, this restaurant near the Trevi Fountain has attracted an eclectic clientele. Federico Fellini was a regular in the 1950s, and he often dined alongside fellow filmmaker Marina Cicogna. Valentino Garavani still shows up for lunch. Al Moro’s eternal appeal is evident—the supplì (Roman-style fried rice balls) are irresistible, as is the fettuccine with soft calamari and prawns. Every dish is served on Al Moro’s signature china, and portraits of well-known patrons paper the walls. Keep your eyes open—a minister or two often sidles into the private room.
Campo Marzio
Ristorante Nino
You’ll likely bump into Roman friends having Saturday-night dinner at Ristorante Nino, a Tuscan restaurant on the central Via Borgogna. They might be sharing plates of carciofi alla Romana paired with a glass or two of Brunello di Montalcino. Nino opened in 1934 and has remained fiercely traditional ever since. The service is speedy, if sometimes gruff, and the lighting is inescapably bright, which, as any indoctrinated Italian knows, means “concentrate on the food.”
Sights
Campo Marzio
Galleria Doria Pamphilj Palace
This private art collection in a four-winged palace on Via del Corso is crammed with masterpieces instead of tourists. It’s an enjoyable and efficient way of experiencing 500 years of art in less than an hour, especially if you take advantage of the free audio tour from the eccentric Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj, whose family still runs the show (and lives on-site). Don’t miss Titian’s Salome with the Head of the Baptist, Raphael’s Double Portrait, and Guercino’s Endymion Sleeping.
Campo Marzio
Capitoline Museums
Procuring a weekend ticket to see the Sistine Chapel, the Vatican, or the Colosseum is almost impossible without booking well in advance, and even if such things can be finagled, the crowds may ruin the experience. The Capitoline Museums provide a similarly rich experience but without the chaos. The site dates to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV constructed it as a repository for his donation of bronze objects. Today, it houses splendors from across the centuries, and admiring the head of a colossal statue of Emperor Constantine, Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Bust of Medusa, and the ancient Roman Capitoline Wolf at sunset can be transcendent.
Celio
Baths Of Caracalla
Yearning to be swept up in the full majesty of ancient Rome? Stop by the Baths of Caracalla. One of the largest, best-preserved thermal complexes in the city is located just a few minutes’ walk from Circo Massimo. Completed in 216 A.D., it spans 62 acres and was designed to accommodate 1,600 bathers. Intriguingly, its architecture inspired the Main Concourse at New York’s Grand Central Terminal.
Centro Storico
San Luigi Dei Francesi
Despite its location, a few steps away from Piazza Navona, San Luigi dei Francesi is often overlooked. Its coffered ceilings reveal a fresco by Charles-Joseph Natoire, an 18th-century French painter whose series “History of Psyche” adorns the Salon de la Princesse, in Paris’s Hôtel de Soubise. Don’t miss the Contarelli Chapel, which houses three of Caravaggio’s most accomplished masterpieces—The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew, Saint Matthew and the Angel, and The Calling of Saint Matthew.
Celio
Chiesa Santo Stefano Rotondo
Chiesa Santo Stefano Rotondo is one of the Catholic Church’s oldest outposts, dating back to the fifth century A.D. Its architectural signature is a round—rather than square—basilica, which encircles a ring of 22 marble columns. To access the building, walk through the Claudian aqueduct and head across the church’s lush grounds. Inside, look out for the Byzantine mosaics and a tiny head of Christ, which tops a richly decorated cross. The church also has 34 frescoes on its peripheral wall, by 15th- and 16th-century masters Il Pomarancio and Matteo da Siena.
Shops
Prati
Schostal Originals
Knits, pajamas, and socks (made of 100 percent cotton and silk, but never nylon!) are the primary offerings of this shop, which has outposts on Via Domenico Chelini and Via della Fontanella Borghese that have serviced Rome’s aristocrats for more than 150 years. You’ll be measured for the pajamas and perhaps advised to buy a size that seems ridiculously large, but go with it—the temperature-moderating, midweight-cotton poplin might give you the best night’s sleep of your life (especially if you supplement with Ambien). We also love the button-up cardigans for men and women and nightgowns for children.
Centro Storico
L’Archivio di Monserrato
The Argentinean fashion designer Soledad Twombly moved to Rome permanently in 1999 when she married the artist Alessandro Twombly, Cy Twombly’s son. A collector of striking objects, such as ashtrays and chairs, as well as clothing and native dress from her overseas travels, she also began to design her own clothing. In 2017, she opened this Wunderkammer on Via di Monserrato, filled with contemporary designs as well as collectibles. Paintings by her husband dot the walls.
Centro Storico
Maison Halaby
“It is not a boutique,” says Lebanese painter and designer Gilbert Halaby of his eclectic Rome atelier, where vintage belts, hand-painted silk sarongs, custom jewelry, and one-of-a-kind bags coexist alongside books by Arabic philosophers. “It is like a small salotto,” he adds. (That’s Italian for “living room.”) Maison Halaby is tucked away on the quaint Via di Monserrato, just steps away from the Campo de’ Fiori. Halaby entertains in straw hats and colorful suits and serves Lebanese tea and cookies.
Centro Storico
Chez Dede
In 2015, husband-and-wife duo Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla unveiled Chez Dede, their first flagship store, in Palazzo Capponi Antonelli, an archaic former museum. Everything from clothing to coffee tables, from brands such as John Derian, Le Sirenuse, Astier de Villatte, and Deszo. There’s a bookshop, too, where titles might range from Jonathan Becker’s 30 Years at Vanity Fair to a lengthy volume on Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Ferolla is a gifted illustrator, his limited-edition scarves, created in collaboration with AIR MAIL, are especially tempting.
Campo Marzio
Atelier Bomba
In 1980, Cristina Bomba first laid eyes on Via dell’Oca 39, a small space just a few minutes’ walk from Campo Marzio. She handpicked items to stock it with, including cashmere sweaters in small cardboard boxes. A few years later, she began serving tea, soup, and salad in the back room for her regular customers. Today, the store is run by Cristina’s son Michele and his wife, Julia, who have created a knitwear and a ready-to-wear line. It’s still a staple among Rome’s style set.
Bars
Centro Storico
Caffè Perù
There’s nothing Instagrammable about this hole-in-the-wall on Via di Monserrato, but its proximity to shops like Chez Dede and Soledad Twombly is among its virtues. One of the last remaining places in central Rome serving a spritz for five dollars, it also bangs out solid panini. In the summer, there are often surprisingly enjoyable poetry and book readings.
Campo Marzio
Ciampini Roma
A trip to Rome wouldn’t be complete without a stop by Ciampini Roma, where all the pariolini (locals from the ritzy Parioli neighborhood) tend to gather. Whether you come in the morning for a tramezzino (a triangular, white-bread sandwich), wafer-thin Roman-style pizza, coffee, ice cream, or cocktails, this bar never disappoints.
Centro Storico
Giolitti
This bar, which arguably serves Rome’s best gelato, has been open since 1900, occupying a quaint storefront just a few minutes’ walk from the Pantheon. Make the impossible choice between nocciola, pistacchio, or stracciatella (on a cone). Giolitti sells irresistible biscotti, tarts, and croissants as well.
Trastevere
Jerry Thomas Bar Room
Rome is not suffering from a shortage of espresso, cornettos, and high-quality wine by the glass, but few places have perfected a perfect martini. The Jerry Thomas Bar Room, which opened in June 2023, always delivers on that front. Its design is Orient Express–inspired, with low, flattering lighting; wood paneling; and Art Deco touches. Unlike most Milanese institutions, there’s no counter—cocktails are prepared on a bar trolley which is wheeled over to your table.
Monti
Drink Kong
Neon lights, checkered floors, and colorful tapas are all ubiquitous at this low-lit cocktail bar. The décor is suggestive of Japanese street style meets 1970s futurism. Flavors are depicted as geometrical shapes on the menu, which can be confusing, but don’t agonize too much. Share your preferences with your waiter—bitter, sweet, smoky, or dry—and submit to their expertise.
