September 9, 2023
The Best
of
The
News
from
Abroad
No. 217
Weekend
Edition
Saturdays

at 6:00 AM
In This Week’s Issue
Remembering Jimmy Buffett

From Margaritaville, the late King of the Parrotheads is recalled as a man who loved life and lived his songs, by friends including Bono and Tom Freston …

Dress Code

From New York, James Wolcott takes a walk on the wild side with a history of drag, from Warhol’s hot messes to the current vibe shift against cross-dressing and gender-bending …

Hard Times

From the newsroom, Adam Nagourney reveals how The New York Times dealt with the world-shaping events of 9/11—and how those events in turn shaped the paper’s future …

Absolutely Calamitous

From London, Ashley Baker laments the fall of Harvey Nichols, once the hippest, most fashionable department store in the country, now a shell of its former self. Can the owner’s twentysomething son save it? …

Con Descension

From Washington, D.C., two Trump biographers compare and contrast Trump and Putin, in this week’s Eight Questions with Jim Kelly …

Frank Incensed

From Las Vegas, New Journalism legend Gay Talese recounts following Frank Sinatra to the desert, in part three of our excerpt from his new memoir …

Vocals Fried

From high school, Nicolaia Rips finds that vaping is having a devastating effect on teen vocal cords, resulting in a generation of young girls with gravelly, husky voices …

BUT, WAIT, THERE’S MORE!

A Gilded Age socialite turned intrepid spy … 100 years of the Hollywood sign … Matthew Broderick on Marlon Brando … behold the Fashion Week gate-crasher … Coco Chanel: the first-ever influencer? … George Weidenfeld’s days of publishing and womanizing … a graphic biography of Stan Lee … Rick Owens finds Charles de Gaulle Airport sexy A.F. … And vote now in our Attention-Whore Index poll! …

But First …
Issue No. 217

The View from Here A kaleidoscopic cultural history of drag in New York City revisits the “Pansy Craze” of the 1920s, the Harlem ball scene, Stonewall, and the Broadway stage

By James Wolcott
Read On
Barry Blitt’s Sketchbook
In Memoriam

Last Round at Margaritaville Some of Jimmy Buffett’s friends remember the man who had many

Read On
Paper Trail

The Longest Day In an exclusive excerpt from an upcoming history of The New York Times: how 9/11 tested the paper’s newsroom—and fueled a wildly successful transition online

By Adam Nagourney
Read On
Air Supply

Cinema Style: Lost in Translation

In anticipation of Lost in Translation’s 20th anniversary, revisit the Oscar-winning film and channel the dreamy aesthetic of Sofia Coppola’s cinematic tribute to Tokyo with the very best luxuries Japan has to offer, from matcha powder grown in Kagoshima to a Yayoi Kusama–inspired journal and beyond
Shop
Photo: TCD/Prod.DB/© Elemental Films/Alamy (Johansson)
Guest Edit

My Favorite Things The British designer and mother of four spotlights the pieces that carry her through her day, from desk-to-dinner wardrobe essentials to the planner that keeps her elegantly organized

By Samantha Cameron
Shop
Photo: Eva K. Salvi (Cameron)
Listen

Lunch with Matthew Broderick On this week’s episode of Table for Two, the No Hard Feelings actor remembers his rough-and-tumble days growing up on Washington Square North, in New York City

Read On
Adventures in Journalism

Assignment: Sinatra
Part III Harold Hayes decides that Esquire will be proceeding with or without the cooperation of Sinatra—whom Talese trails to Las Vegas

By Gay Talese
Read On
T.G.I.S.

The Attention-Whore Index A brand-new champion wears the crown, but being a world-class narcissist is all about consistency. Just ask Elon Musk or Clarence Thomas, who are back seizing the spotlight once again

Read On
Fading Fashions

Dark Days at Harvey Nicks The London department store used to be the chattering classes’ byword for British style, but now it’s been outdone by its rival Harrods. Can the twentysomething son of the owner rejuvenate it?

By Ashley Baker
Read On
Bubble Trouble

Indecent Disposal A French champagne boss’s former mistress harassed and humiliated him—then threatened to chop off his penis

By Charles Bremner
Read On
Modern Times

The Voice of a Generation Teen girls are hitting disposable vapes all day, every day. Has all that smoking made them sound less like kids and more like Tom Waits?

By Nicolaia Rips
Read On
Small Talk

Assisted Leading White House aides worry that Biden is showing his age—or Methuselah’s

By John Ficarra
Read On
Haute Tickets

The Clothes Maketh the ’Gram Gate-crashing runway shows is hardly new, but once upon a time it was rare, memorable, and involved people who lived for fashion. Now it’s a social-media status symbol

By Elena Clavarino
Read On
Film

Bigger than Life Tragedy! Triumph! Tinsel! One hundred years of the Hollywood sign

By Sam Kashner
Photo Illustration by Chop Choppish Shop
Read On
Small Talk
“Turns out the biggest mistake a hunter can make is sleeping with the wife of the town’s only taxidermist.”
“Turns out the biggest mistake a hunter can make is sleeping with the wife of the town’s only taxidermist.”
Little Britain

Bongs, Thongs, and Throngs

The largest street carnival outside of Rio takes place in the toniest of London districts
By Charlie Baker
Illustrations by Paul Cox
Read On
Best
Treat Bar Gelateria del Molo Sardinia is one of the world’s five blue zones, featuring a higher than average percentage of 100-year-olds… Prepare Shabbat Even if you don’t know a lot about Judaism, you’ve probably heard that Shabbat, the Jewish Sabbath, is a pretty big deal. Every Friday, family… Visit Salon 21 Gertrude Stein’s Parisian salon has found its modern incarnation in a SoHo loft. The newly opened Salon 21 aims to provide art… Sparkle David Yurman A straightforward, wear-every-day bangle. Thousands of jewelry designers have attempted it, but few have mastered the concept. Now… Apply Bioeffect In Norse mythology, the secret to eternal youth was found in Idun’s golden apples. Much to my dismay, said magic apples are not real… Sip Doladira Oh, dear. It seems that we have contracted a case of Aperol fatigue. (Can you really blame us?) But we’re not quite prepared to subsist entirely… Treat Bar Gelateria del Molo Sardinia is one of the world’s five blue zones, featuring a higher than average percentage of 100-year-olds… Prepare Shabbat Even if you don’t know a lot about Judaism, you’ve probably heard that Shabbat, the Jewish Sabbath, is a pretty big deal. Every Friday, family… Visit Salon 21 Gertrude Stein’s Parisian salon has found its modern incarnation in a SoHo loft. The newly opened Salon 21 aims to provide art… Sparkle David Yurman A straightforward, wear-every-day bangle. Thousands of jewelry designers have attempted it, but few have mastered the concept. Now… Apply Bioeffect In Norse mythology, the secret to eternal youth was found in Idun’s golden apples. Much to my dismay, said magic apples are not real… Sip Doladira Oh, dear. It seems that we have contracted a case of Aperol fatigue. (Can you really blame us?) But we’re not quite prepared to subsist entirely…
Eight Questions

Painting the White House Orange In an interview, authors Peter Baker and Susan Glasser discuss Trump’s indictments, his similarities with Putin, and what a 2024 election could look like

By Jim Kelly
Read On
Listen

Jimmy Buffett’s Life Lessons On this week’s podcast, Tom Freston remembers his friend and the adventures they had together

Read On
Highlight

A Tweed Apart Featuring more than 200 looks, a sweeping retrospective of Coco Chanel’s life and career goes up at the Victoria and Albert Museum

By Dana Thomas
Read On
Cover Story

Poster Boy A North Carolina–based illustrator reimagines contemporary films as vintage book covers

By KATHRYN BROMWICH
10
A cover for Fight Club, inspired by David Fincher’s 1999 film.
A cover for Pee-wee’s Big Adventure, inspired by Tim Burton’s 1985 film.
A cover for Lady Bird, inspired by Greta Gerwig’s 2017 film.
A cover for Parasite, inspired by Bong Joon-ho’s 2019 film.
A cover for Mad Max: Fury Road, inspired by George Miller’s 2015 film.
A cover for Ghostbusters, inspired by Ivan Reitman’s 1984 film.
A cover for Rango, inspired by Gore Verbinski’s 2011 film.
A cover for Do the Right Thing, inspired by Spike Lee’s 1989 film.
A cover for Guardians of the Galaxy, inspired by James Gunn’s 2014 film.
A cover for Fantastic Mr. Fox, inspired by Wes Anderson’s 2009 film.
Adventures in Publishing

The Weidenfeld Way A new biography tells the story of the famed publisher George Weidenfeld, of London’s Weidenfeld & Nicolson, an uproarious character who stood at the meeting point of the literary and society worlds

By Peter Osnos
Read On
Small Talk
Inside Story

Spy Games A new book pulls back the curtain on the mysterious life of Marguerite Harrison, a Gilded Age socialite turned intrepid spy

By Janet Wallach
Read On
Book Reviews
Jason Guriel On

I Am Stan: A Graphic Biography of the Legendary Stan Lee

by Tom Scioli
Read On
Jonathan Darman On

Passionate Mothers, Powerful Sons: The Lives of Jennie Jerome Churchill and Sara Delano Roosevelt

by Charlotte Gray
Read On
Jenny Colgan On

The Last Devil to Die

by Richard Osman
Read On
Small Talk
“That sonuvabitch gave up watching the news.”
“That sonuvabitch gave up watching the news.”
Close-up

Jocelyn Bioh Ahead of the Broadway debut of her new play, Jaja’s African Hair Braiding, the actress and playwright discusses why she infuses her stories with humor

By Paulina Prosnitz
Read On
Small Talk
“Your choice: the whip, the rack, or small talk.”
“Your choice: the whip, the rack, or small talk.”
The Seasoned Traveler

Rick Owens Ahead of his spring-summer 2024 runway show, the fashion-and-furniture designer reveals his travel routine

Read On
Drew Friedman’s Sketchbook
One of the most celebrated—and controversial—artists of his time, R. Crumb marked his 80th birthday on August 30. The underground cartoonist, who has lived in France since 1991, revisited the United States in early 2023, crisscrossing the country by car, with his nephew at the wheel, to see his family and old friends. His life continues to be an open book, warts and all.
Is Edited By

Graydon Carter and Alessandra Stanley

Creative Director

Angela Panichi

Deputy Editors

Ashley Baker Ash Carter Chris Garrett Nathan King Julia Vitale

Chief Technology Officer

John Tornow

Editor at Large

George Pendle

Books Editor

Jim Kelly

Arts Intel Report Editor

Laura Jacobs

Senior Editor

Elena Clavarino

Junior Editor

Jensen Davis

Photo Director

Ann Schneider

Copy Editor

Adam Nadler

Research & Legal Editor

Matt Kapp

Production Editor

H. Scott Jolley

Associate Editors

Carolina de Armas Clara Molot Paulina Prosnitz Jack Sullivan

Art Director

Paloma Huerre

Photo Editor

Emine Gözde Sevim

Designer

Zoé Gillette

International Editor

Isabelle Harvie-Watt

London Editor

Bridget Arsenault

Communications Director

Harrison Vail

Columnists

Cazzie David Lisa Henricksson Walter Isaacson
Pico Iyer Rachel Johnson John Lahr
Jonathan Margolis Linda Wells James Wolcott

Writers at Large

Lili Anolik Johanna Berkman Joseph Bullmore Vassi Chamberlain William D. Cohan Rich Cohen Michael Hainey Stuart Heritage George Kalogerakis Sam Kashner James Kirchick Alexander Lobrano Alexandra Marshall Daphne Merkin

Contributing Artists

Monica Ahanonu Barry Blitt André Carrilho Paul Davis David Downton Andrea Ferolla Josh Gosfield Cathy Graham Eric Hanson Angelica Hicks Pip Johnson Hilary Knight Danielle Kosann Michael Lindsay-Hogg Ross MacDonald Joe McKendry James McMullan Donald Robertson Charles Dare Scheips Grant Shaffer Ed Sorel Ralph Steadman

Contributing Photographers

Jonathan Becker Justin Bishop Alex Board James Emmerman Marcos Fecchino Daniel Paik Art Streiber Sharon Suh Justin Weiner

Architectural Consultant

Basil Walter

Head of Audience Development

Rachel LeSage

Audience Growth Manager

Merritt Johnson

Cartoon Editor

Bob Mankoff

Music Supervisor

Randall Poster

Technology

Brooks Oakley Justin Rubaloff Sade Singleton

Interns

Eleanor Barzun Isabella Carter Nyla Gilstrap Michael Melinger Gasper Tringale-White

OUR CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER ARE

Bill Keenan and Emily Davis

Air Supply General Manager and Brand Partnerships

Anjali Lewis

Advertising Director

Michael Pescuma

European Sales Director

Selim Mataraci

Financial & Business Operations

Marc Leyer

Chief Strategy Adviser

Adam Mendelsohn

Chief Merchant

Jennifer Noyes

Shop Editor

Zoe Ruffner

E-Commerce Manager

Isaac Metlitsky

E-Commerce Associates

Coco Paul-Henriot Roxy Solis

In Memoriam

Peter Bogdanovich Duncan Hannah Douglas McGrath Richard David Story André Leon Talley

Issue No. 217
September 9, 2023
Loading issue contents …
Issue No. 217
September 9, 2023
View the Archives
Every editorial product is independently selected. If you buy something through
our links, AIR MAIL may earn an affiliate commission.