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Empresses of Seventh Avenue: World War II, New York City, and the Birth of American Fashion Hardcover – August 27, 2024
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A NEW YORK TIMES MOST ANTICIPATED • "Reads like a work of fiction, but remarkably, it's all true" (Airmail) • In the tradition of The Barbizon and The Girls of Atomic City, fashion historian and journalist Nancy MacDonell chronicles the untold story of how the Nazi invasion of France gave rise to the American fashion industry.
Calvin Klein. Ralph Lauren. Donna Karan. Halston. Marc Jacobs. Tom Ford. Michael Kors. Tory Burch. Today, American designers are some of the biggest names in fashion, yet before World War II, they almost always worked anonymously. The industry, then centered on Seventh Avenue in Manhattan, had always looked overseas for "inspiration"―a polite phrase for what was often blatant copying―because style, as all the world knew, came from Paris.
But when the Nazis invaded France in 1940, the capital of fashion was cut off from the rest of the world. The story of the chaos and tragedy that followed has been told many times―but how it directly affected American fashion is largely unknown.
Defying the naysayers, New York-based designers, retailers, editors, and photographers met the moment, turning out clothes that were perfectly suited to the American way of life: sophisticated, modern, comfortable, and affordable. By the end of the war, "the American Look" had been firmly established as a fresh, easy elegance that combined function with style. But none of it would have happened without the influence and ingenuity of a small group of women who have largely been lost to history.
Empresses of Seventh Avenue will tell the story of how these extraordinary women put American fashion on the world stage and created the template for modern style―and how the nearly $500 billion American fashion industry, the largest in the world, could not have accrued its power and wealth without their farsightedness and determination.
- Print length368 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherSt. Martin's Press
- Publication dateAugust 27, 2024
- Dimensions6.55 x 1.15 x 9.5 inches
- ISBN-101250288738
- ISBN-13978-1250288738
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"MacDonell’s book introduces us to the extraordinary American women who shaped our industry." ―Tory Burch
"A timely appraisal of the grit, glamour, and ingenuity of American fashion’s World War II-era pioneers." ―Vogue.com
"Remarkable, engaging...MacDonell recounts in lively prose and rich historical detail [how] the women behind this tremendous success story have been, until now, largely forgotten―a wrong that she rights with verve and, dare I say, elegance." ―The New York Times Book Review
"Empresses of Seventh Avenue reads like a work of fiction, but, remarkably, it’s all true. MacDonell has written a thoroughly fascinating and entertaining book, loaded with keen observations throughout. But lest the delivery belie the message, Empresses of Seventh Avenue is an important book, uncovering for the first time how a handful of smart, courageous, and gifted women defied the odds and succeeded in creating the American Look." ―Air Mail
"Women are center stage in Empresses of Seventh Avenue…MacDonell tells their story with verve." ―Parade
"In Nancy MacDonell's book, the story of international intrigue and its sartorial consequences is told in fascinating detail." ―Town & Country
"MacDonell traces the surprising ways that World War II revolutionized American high couture, spotlighting the women who shaped the fashion scene―photographers, designers, department store heads―in fine-grained character studies that show them to be flawed and nuanced as they were trailblazing." ―Publishers Weekly, Editor's Pick
"MacDonell effortlessly weaves in period detail [and] meticulously documents the deliberate and incredibly successful campaign mounted by clothing manufacturers, the media, and politicians to promote American design and make New York City the fashion capital of the world...a rich, engaging, and insightful title." ―Booklist (starred review)
"Well written and informative, with extensive research notes. Highly recommended for fashion merchandising and women’s studies readers." ―Library Journal (starred review)
"Fashion writer MacDonell delivers a colorful chronicle of the female journalists, designers, and retailers who revolutionized American style during WWII. MacDonnell’s fine-grained character studies complement her fascinating insights into the political and cultural forces that ushered in a new era of American style. Fashionistas won’t be able to put this one down." ―Publishers Weekly
"Why are so many of fashion’s top design jobs still mostly held by men? At a moment when fashion’s woman problem is once again making headlines, MacDonell’s history of the female designers of early Seventh Avenue is a cheering, illuminating read." ―Nicole Phelps, Global Director, Vogue Runway and Vogue Business
"Nancy MacDonell understands not only what clothes are but what they represent, the international politics and national tics behind them, what they can and should be and why. Her fascinating history will introduce a reader to unforgettable characters as she enlivens pockets of as-yet-unconnected history. An American-designed dress doesn't look the same after reading this book." ―Julia Cooke, author of Come Fly The World: The Jet-Age Story of the Women of Pan Am
"In her densely researched, yet deliciously readable Empresses of Seventh Avenue, MacDonell charts how the scrappy American fashion industry came to rival the one in Paris. Her book crackles. It’s chic, original, and packed with characters with moxie, from the familiar―Dior, Snow, Vreeland―to the near forgotten, including such gems as the shrewd publicist Eleanor Lambert and Elizabeth Hawes, raging anarchist and designer." ―Penelope Rowlands, author of A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters
"At last.... the book we have been waiting for! MacDonell's exquisitely researched book is a love letter to the women responsible for the rise of American fashion. From the powerhouse players working behind the scenes as department store executives and fashion photographers to the designers who gifted women the novelty of practical chic and the fashion journalists who sung their praises, this book is the first to paint an immersive picture of the seminal role women played in American fashion's emergence from the shadow of Paris at the turn of the 20th century and beyond." ―April Calahan, Fashion Historian, and host of "Dressed: The History of Fashion" podcast
"Nancy MacDonell uncovers the fascinating, forgotten history of the women who shaped American fashion as we know it today in sumptuous detail. This is an eye-opening, propulsive, and important book." ―Amy Odell, New York Times bestselling author of Anna: The Biography
"Confident and approachable, Empresses of Seventh Avenue is more than a scrupulously-researched source for anyone interested in fashion. The lives of these pioneering American Women and their myriad of talents and aesthetics are crafted by MacDonell the way a florist blends an exuberant assemblage of disparate blooms―from hothouse orchids to humble wildflowers―and places them in a compelling literary narrative that is as clear and lucid as a cut crystal vase." ―Patricia Mears, author and deputy director at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
"I thoroughly enjoyed reading Empresses of Seventh Avenue. It brought back many memories, long forgotten or unknown, in vivid detail about the American fashion industry. I loved reading about the women who built the industry in America." ―Carol Spencer, author of Dressing Barbie
About the Author
Product details
- Publisher : St. Martin's Press (August 27, 2024)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 368 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1250288738
- ISBN-13 : 978-1250288738
- Item Weight : 2.31 pounds
- Dimensions : 6.55 x 1.15 x 9.5 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #81,282 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #80 in Fashion History
- #148 in Fashion Design
- #192 in Women in History
- Customer Reviews:
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Customers find the book engaging and well-written. They praise the author's depth of knowledge and descriptive writing style. Readers appreciate the compelling tales and inspiring stories that shape American fashion. The writer is described as brilliant, witty, and bold.
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Customers find the book engaging and well-written. They appreciate the descriptive details and well-constructed chapters that guide them through the narrative.
"...The insightful author uses descriptive detail and well constructed chapters to lead you through a part of our history that is fascinating...." Read more
"...Still, it's a good and fun read, and MacDonell has done an excellent job of telling her story even though it's not the one her title suggests." Read more
"...Nancy's writing is at once informative and engaging. Fantastic book...." Read more
"...and journalist Nancy MacDonell provides insights and an engaging chronicle of all the ways powerhouse American women were behind the rise of..." Read more
Customers appreciate the book's fashion history. They find it useful and chic, with a modern perspective. The author honors trailblazing women of that era.
"...This is not a fashion photography / coffee table book. It is chock full of surprising facts and characters which make it a great read!" Read more
"...This book has Nancy at her best, delving into American fashion in a way that showcases her deep knowledge of the subject...." Read more
"...stories that have shaped American fashion, honoring the trailblazing women of that era in such a way that will keep their stories and legacies alive..." Read more
"...with the American take on fashion - less fussy, more useful, but still chic. HOWEVER, there is not a single photograph or illustration...." Read more
Customers appreciate the author's knowledge and skill in presenting the subject. They find the book insightful, with descriptive details and well-constructed chapters that guide readers through the topic.
"...The insightful author uses descriptive detail and well constructed chapters to lead you through a part of our history that is fascinating...." Read more
"...best, delving into American fashion in a way that showcases her deep knowledge of the subject. Nancy's writing is at once informative and engaging...." Read more
"...With her usual wit and depth of knowledge (and clever insertion of just the right amount of insider gossip that she's unearthed in her research),..." Read more
Customers find the stories compelling and inspiring. They say the author does an excellent job of telling her story. The book is engaging, well-written, and a good read.
"...it's a good and fun read, and MacDonell has done an excellent job of telling her story even though it's not the one her title suggests." Read more
"Profoundly inspiring stories that have shaped American fashion, honoring the trailblazing women of that era in such a way that will keep their..." Read more
"This is actually an interesting book about the evolution of fashion from Louis XIV and the development of the haute couture French Legend through..." Read more
Customers find the writer brilliant and witty. They describe her as one of the few fashion historians with a bold personality.
"...While engaging, well-written, and a good read, the title should be changed...." Read more
"...Nancy is a brilliant writer and one of the few fashion historians with a modern lens. There’s no one better suited to share these compelling tales...." Read more
"Witty and Bold Women..." Read more
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Top reviews from the United States
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- Reviewed in the United States on February 27, 2025You will be engaged in history following the witty and bold women who shaped American fashion. The insightful author uses descriptive detail and well constructed chapters to lead you through a part of our history that is fascinating. This is not a fashion photography / coffee table book. It is chock full of surprising facts and characters which make it a great read!
You will be engaged in history following the witty and bold women who shaped American fashion. The insightful author uses descriptive detail and well constructed chapters to lead you through a part of our history that is fascinating. This is not a fashion photography / coffee table book. It is chock full of surprising facts and characters which make it a great read!
Images in this review
- Reviewed in the United States on November 28, 2024When I picked up this book, I thought I was purchasing a history of NY's Seventh Avenue. While engaging, well-written, and a good read, the title should be changed. The book's subject is not the garment industry but the geopolitical shift that caused fashion design to relocate to New York. I hope this author will write another book about the needle trade in New York. Another thing--no pics. A book about dress design requires photos. I wonder why they were excluded. It's probably cost-cutting by the publisher, but it's a shame. Still, it's a good and fun read, and MacDonell has done an excellent job of telling her story even though it's not the one her title suggests.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 11, 2025Nancy MacDonell is one of the best writers of fashion history. This book has Nancy at her best, delving into American fashion in a way that showcases her deep knowledge of the subject. Nancy's writing is at once informative and engaging. Fantastic book. If you like this book, you'll love her column in the Wall Street Journal where she explains the genesis of the Polka Dot or the history if the "It Bag".
- Reviewed in the United States on March 21, 2025Fascinating history of American designers and the development of retail ready to wear. I was disappointed that there were pages and pages of footnotes when I wanted to see some photos of the designers and their clothes.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 4, 2025Profoundly inspiring stories that have shaped American fashion, honoring the trailblazing women of that era in such a way that will keep their stories and legacies alive for another 85 years. Nancy is a brilliant writer and one of the few fashion historians with a modern lens. There’s no one better suited to share these compelling tales. All would be proud.
- Reviewed in the United States on October 17, 2024This is actually an interesting book about the evolution of fashion from Louis XIV and the development of the haute couture French Legend through post-war America's own growth as a fashion powerhouse standing on it's own with the American take on fashion - less fussy, more useful, but still chic. HOWEVER, there is not a single photograph or illustration. I think it detracts 100% from the value of the book. Who would publish a book about any artist or designer - landscape, fashion, painting, architecture - without any illustrations?
- Reviewed in the United States on February 12, 2025I enjoyed this book. The stories were interesting and the writing was good. But how do you write a book about fashion and not have PICTURES????
- Reviewed in the United States on February 20, 2025The business of fashion started not so long ago and fashion historian and journalist Nancy MacDonell provides insights and an engaging chronicle of all the ways powerhouse American women were behind the rise of American fashion during World War II, when Parisian design houses were compromised by the Nazi invasion of France. With her usual wit and depth of knowledge (and clever insertion of just the right amount of insider gossip that she's unearthed in her research), MacDonell gives the reader the landscape of the people, stores, magazines and companies who launched American fashion. This is an engaging read for everyone interested in the history of style as well as the history of that era in time.