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A Monthly Culture Matrix For the Cosmopolitan Traveler

The Restaurant

Streaming on Sundance Now / Film & TV

An old friend put me onto the series The Restaurant, on the Sundance Channel. It’s about a family-run restaurant in Stockholm after World War II. The first-season dynamics are both familiar and original. An imperious matriarch. An incompetent and conniving son at the helm. A beautiful daughter in love with a young boy who works in the kitchen. And another son—a handsome returning veteran—and his girlfriend, a concentration-camp survivor. There are corrupt businessmen, touching early loves, fedoras, and Nazi sympathizers. What more could you ask for? Also, it’s seriously elegant, with great cars and clothes. Even the credits are smashing. You’ll love it. And you’ll be famished after every episode. —Graydon Carter

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